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Routes in Nude Buttress

Brain Damage T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Brainwashed T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cruisin' in the Nude T,S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Liar, Liar... S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Naked Truth, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Numb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unspoken Truth, The S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
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Type: Trad, 160 ft
FA: Mike Cohen, Lee Miller, 1969
Page Views: 164 total · 2/month
Shared By: Doug Redosh on Aug 9, 2009
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Great climbing in the corner and exposure on the traverse. Crux may be pulling the slot at the top. The corner has some great moves in the 5.8 - 5.9 range. The rock looks dirty but is actually very good!

Location

Right side of the buttress, where the trail starts to go up the hillside. One can climb the initial short corner/ramp (awkward 5.8 - takes small alien in the best hold), then downclimb to the left. Alternatively, it looks like one can angle up left to the anchors. Descend by walking right, then some exposed 3rd class scrambling to the gully. There is now a 2 bolt anchor to avoid downclimbing the gully.

Protection

Trad up to #3 Camalot. 2 pins. One can break it into 2 pitches to avoid rope drag by belaying at the 2 bolt anchor (the top of the Naked Truth) at the bottom of the corner.

Photos

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Doug Redosh
Golden, CO
 
Doug Redosh   Golden, CO
 
That 2 bolt anchor for the descent is actually the top of P1 of Cruising in the Nude 5.7 Aug 13, 2009

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