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The Venturi Effect

5.12, Trad, Alpine, 1200 ft, 10 pitches, Grade IV,  Avg: 4 from 17 votes
FA: Croft, Nettle, Davis 04
California > High Sierra > 02 - The Sawtoo… > Incredible Hulk

Description

The Venturi Effect is a spectacular line, maybe the best of it's grade in the Sierra (or California, or the US...?) Continuously difficult, the bulk of the climbing is sustained 5.11, with plently of vicious, well-protected 5.12 cruxes. Do this route right now!

P1 starts at a thin flake with a bolt on the right side of the "Triangular recess". It's not the wider crack that forms the actual right side of the triangle (that's "Eye of the Storm"), but just to it's left. It's hard right off the deck, but hey, that's what you signed up for! 11+, link with 70m rope to the "Terrace" ledge, otherwise use an intermediate 2 bolt anchor.

P2 From the right side of the "Terrace" Ledge (shared with Positive, Sunspot, etc), look for a piton in a thin horizontal crack. Traverse past this and into a vertical, flared crack. 11+, a bit spicy. Belay off fixed nuts just below the obvious corner.

P3 The stellar corner! Make some exciting moves up and left to gain the corner (5.11), and then battle you're way up it with every corner technique you've ever even dreamed of. Probably the best pitch, anywhere. 5.12
Belay at some fixed gear atop the corner.

P4 Up, past some committing lie-backing, and then step left and wander over to Positive Vibes. Climb it to the Bivy Ledge. 5.11

P5 A short, easy pitch to a two bolt anchor on a good stance. Start as for Positive, then bear right. 5.10-

P6 The start of the fantastic "Sheild" Pitches. You're aiming for a splitter with 2 bolts, which has bouldery 12a crux. Belay at the first 2 bolt anchor.

P7 A good long pitch, past one older 2 bolt station. Up high, there are plenty of new bolts, but the crux comes at the only old bolt (?) (5.12) At the end of the splitter, traverse left to a 2 bolt anchor.

P8 Up a flared, thin splitter, then past 2 bolts (5.12). Traverse the short roof on its right, and gain a overhanging splitter on the right side of the arete (killer position!) Climb up maybe 10-15' to a fixed nut, then make tricky (not so obvious) traverse right into a splitter on the face. Climb it, then pull crux thin slabby moves past two bolts to the belay (5.12)

P9 Climb up into "The Venturi" a cool inset roof feature, past a few bolts (11+) Stem past the rooves (5.10) to gain the Crow's Nest ledge.

P10 Climb the obvious flared splitter to the ridgeline. (5.11+)

From here, either Rap (70m rope) or continue on the ridge to the summit for the last 2 red dihedral pitches.

Protection

2-3 sets of small cams, doubles to #2 Camalot, single #3. Full set of stoppers and small RPs.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

P.7 of the Venturi Effect <br>
Photo by Eric Bissell
[Hide Photo] P.7 of the Venturi Effect Photo by Eric Bissell
P.7 of the Venturi Effect<br>
photo by Eric Bissell
[Hide Photo] P.7 of the Venturi Effect photo by Eric Bissell
12+ 'book of secrets' pitch 4
[Hide Photo] 12+ 'book of secrets' pitch 4
Sam S. chilling out in the book of secrets
[Hide Photo] Sam S. chilling out in the book of secrets
Pulling the roof on the final 5.12 pitch.
[Hide Photo] Pulling the roof on the final 5.12 pitch.
12+ pitch climbing into the Venturi
[Hide Photo] 12+ pitch climbing into the Venturi
splitters on upper pitches
[Hide Photo] splitters on upper pitches
The Venturi Effect
[Hide Photo] The Venturi Effect
High on the route.  Taken by a party on Lenticular Gyrations.
[Hide Photo] High on the route. Taken by a party on Lenticular Gyrations.
Josh Cruxing
[Hide Photo] Josh Cruxing
Pitch 3
[Hide Photo] Pitch 3
The Venturi Effect, 5.12. Croft, Nettle, Davis '04.
[Hide Photo] The Venturi Effect, 5.12. Croft, Nettle, Davis '04.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Dave Nettle's great topo can be found in PDF here Aug 9, 2009
Brad G
 
[Hide Comment] Some good info for one of the best climbs in the High Sierra! Astroman quality in the high mountains, you just cant beat it... Aug 11, 2009
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
[Hide Comment] 2010 Reel Rock Film Tour video of the master Croft and Lisa Rands climbing the route.

youtube.com/watch?v=rGA1vI2… May 20, 2011
[Hide Comment] thanks spencer, best climbing vid ever? Sep 20, 2015
[Hide Comment] Left: #2 at beginning of corner when our rope got stuck in a wind storm while rappelling.

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Thanks! Sep 19, 2017