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Southern Pillar

5.3, Trad, 150 ft, 2 pitches,  Avg: 2.2 from 32 votes
FA: Hans Kraus, Roger Wolcott, Del Wilde, 1941
New York > Gunks > Trapps > f. The Guides' Wall (…
Access Issue: 2019 Peregrine Closure Details
Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappeling Details


The Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst wall has good easy routes on either side - both Southern Pillar and Northern Pillar are excellent excursions for beginners.

Start up easy terrain just left of Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst, working right and up into large left-facing dihedrals. Finding the easiest line requires a little thought as you climb through corners and overhangs. You'll end up at the ledge atop Madame G's.


Just left of the Madame G's area.

Descent: bolted rap station at the front, north side of the ledge on top of Madame G's.


A small rack should suffice.

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My belay ledge. Incredible exposure, bomber gear, awesome.
[Hide Photo] My belay ledge. Incredible exposure, bomber gear, awesome.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
[Hide Comment] Goodness, this was gardening all the way up. Very dirty and vegetated. That said, it was fun, easy and felt a bit like adventure climbing. I wouldn't do it again!

(We were looking for an easy lead for my climbing partner) Oct 10, 2013
Fort Collins, CO
[Hide Comment] Definitely NOT for beginning leaders (the easiest line wanders around bushes in the middle of P2) or timid seconds (P2 is very exposed for the grade). The Grey Dick says 5.2 s/b 5.5 That said, I loved it! Try Northern Pillar for beginners. Sep 29, 2014
Ben Hoste
Tucson, AZ
[Hide Comment] I found the route to be pretty dirty with lots of plant growth, and lots of cobwebs. For example, large and multiple spider webs in the chimney behind the ear. Loose rock in places and plenty fo dirt. Would hate to climb this when it was wet. The 5.7 variation to finish described in the Williams guide is fantastic and a nice finish to Columbia, which is a much better dihedral climb in my opinion than Southern Pillar, although more difficult. If you are seeking out an easy climb for a beginner might I suggest nearby climbs Northern Pillar, Minty, Twin Oaks, Beginner's Delight, and of course Three Pines. This climb is still fun, can be led in one pitch with a 70meter rope with ease. Jun 11, 2018