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Keyhole Offwidth
V0,
Boulder, 15 ft (5 m),
Avg: 2.5 from 20
votes
FA: Doug Kerr, 1951
New York
> Gunks
> Trapps Bouldering
> Keyhole Cliff area
Description
According to the grey Dick guide to the Trapps, this goes at 5.7 as a trad climb. While I wished I had a nice #4 above me, I was very glad that I wasnt wearing my steel skirt. I found this problem considerably more difficult than Keyhole Left and Keyhole Right, which Dick rates as 5.9 and 5.9+. Climb the 4 wide off-width crack to the horizontal 15 feet up and traverse off left or drop. Use the chock stone, a chicken wing, a foot jam or levitation to get to the top and remember its only 5.7.
Location
You cant miss it. The offwidth just left of the small tree growing at the base of the Keyhole wall.
Protection
Spotter, hope that your leg comes out of the crack if you come off.
[Hide Comment] Rather than traversing left as suggested after these problems, I think it's safer to do a controlled fall onto a pad from the jugs. The left end of the traverse takes you over some sketchy landings.
May 9, 2018
Avg: 2.5 from 20
votes
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