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Routes in Keyhole Cliff area

Type: Boulder, 15 ft
FA: Doug Kerr, 1951
Page Views: 1,143 total · 11/month
Shared By: Anthony Baraff on Aug 8, 2009
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


9 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Route Closure Details

Description [Suggest Change]

According to the grey Dick guide to the Trapps, this goes at 5.7 as a trad climb. While I wished I had a nice #4 above me, I was very glad that I wasn’t wearing my steel skirt. I found this problem considerably more difficult than Keyhole Left and Keyhole Right, which Dick rates as 5.9 and 5.9+. Climb the 4’ wide off-width crack to the horizontal 15 feet up and traverse off left or drop. Use the chock stone, a chicken wing, a foot jam or levitation to get to the top and remember it’s only 5.7.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Spotter, hope that your leg comes out of the crack if you come off.

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David Kerkeslager
New Paltz, NY
David Kerkeslager   New Paltz, NY
Rather than traversing left as suggested after these problems, I think it's safer to do a controlled fall onto a pad from the jugs. The left end of the traverse takes you over some sketchy landings. May 9, 2018

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