Type: Trad, Alpine, 70 ft (21 m)
FA: Paul Gagner and Renny Jackson 04 July 1986
Page Views: 2,597 total · 15/month
Shared By: Dave E. on Aug 7, 2009 · Updates
Admins: Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson

You & This Route

6 Opinions

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Access Issue: Baxter’s Pinnacle and Southwest Descent Gully Closed for Nesting Peregrine Falcons Details


This arching corner would be an awesome addition to guides wall if your still needing a little more oomph to your day. Starts out from the belay ledge as easy face and a traverse right to gain the corner, climb this as it arches severely to the left, a little bit cruxy near the beginning but hold on cause a great rest is to be had before the crux where the crack thins to finger tips then eases off at he the lip of the roof to a few feet of easier hand jamming to the anchor. The feet were a little licheny/scaly but this is the alpine after all. It is also possible to continue up one pitch(5.8 or 9 maybe?) then traverse left a ways(?) to join guides wall as rossiter describes(i did not do this) The anchor atop the first pitch is two good looking bolts with webbing and rings


This route is located very near to the start of Guides Wall. As you approach guides when you come near to the base of the wall and begin to go up and left towards the base of that climb, look up and right and you should have no trouble spotting this prominent arching corner/roof. To get to the base you must climb up and right via some 4th or super easy 5th to get to the obvious belay ledge where you can set a belay


mostly cams due to the nature of the crack from blue alien to #2 or #3 Camelot with doubles(or maybe triples in smaller sizes) from 5/8in or so(green alien) to 2in(#1camalot) and maybe a small selection of medium to medium/large nuts