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Rapple Grapple
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 2.8 from 89 votes
Type: | Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches |
FA: | Bryan Burdo |
Page Views: | 9,722 total · 54/month |
Shared By: | Justin Slagle on Aug 6, 2009 · Updates |
Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters |
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Access Issue: Washington Pass Fire Closure Lifted
Details
Washington Pass Climbing was closed on 8/15/23 due to the Blue Lake Fire until further notice. On 9/7/23 this closure was reduced in size. On 9/22 this was reduced again, opening all WA Climbing Routes. For remaining closures, see:
fs.usda.gov/alerts/okawen/a…
fs.usda.gov/alerts/okawen/a…
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure at Newhalem Crags March 1st to mid-July
Details
Peregrine falcons select nest sites on cliffs in the Upper Skagit Valley, including the Climbing Management Areas of Newhalem West (Ryan’s Wall) and Newhalem East. As required in the NPS Superintendent’s Compendium, these areas will be closed to all public from March 1st to July 15th of each year, or until the young falcons have fledged or NPS staff have determined that nesting will not occur on a specific wall during this period. Access Fund, Washington Climbers Coalition and NPS partner on a volunteer raptor monitoring program to determine nesting activity. Contact the NPS and/or WCC for updates.
Description
Original Route (5.8):
After one pitch of the Beckey Route, traverse right on the ledge (the "Beckey ledge") past a few trees and go up an open book corner system to the top of the buttress rejoining the Beckey Route before attempting the scramble and 10 foot 5.6 slab to the top.
Direct start (5.8):
Start a few feet to the right of a red blocky overhang and make your way up and left to the Beckey ledge and follow the original route rejoining the Beckey Route and finishing to the summit.
Variation (5.8+):
Do the direct start and, instead of going to the Beckey ledge, continue up to a ledge below an overhanging leaning block. There's a tree with a sling to belay from. After leaving the belay spot (crux pitch), continue past the leaning block and move up and left to rejoin the original route, belay before you venture up a ramp to the right, then you'll run into a 10 or 15 foot 5.8 crack with an old piton in it. After the crack you'll rejoin the Beckey route and scramble to the top as per the original route.
After one pitch of the Beckey Route, traverse right on the ledge (the "Beckey ledge") past a few trees and go up an open book corner system to the top of the buttress rejoining the Beckey Route before attempting the scramble and 10 foot 5.6 slab to the top.
Direct start (5.8):
Start a few feet to the right of a red blocky overhang and make your way up and left to the Beckey ledge and follow the original route rejoining the Beckey Route and finishing to the summit.
Variation (5.8+):
Do the direct start and, instead of going to the Beckey ledge, continue up to a ledge below an overhanging leaning block. There's a tree with a sling to belay from. After leaving the belay spot (crux pitch), continue past the leaning block and move up and left to rejoin the original route, belay before you venture up a ramp to the right, then you'll run into a 10 or 15 foot 5.8 crack with an old piton in it. After the crack you'll rejoin the Beckey route and scramble to the top as per the original route.
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