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Silver Threads

5.10b PG13, Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 3 pitches,  Avg: 3.1 from 14 votes
FA: Smith, H and E Laeger 8/1977
California > Southern-Wester… > Southern Sierra… > Needles > Necromancer Needle

Description

When you've done the moderate standards on The Witch ( Igor Unchained, Innersanctum, and Airy Interlude ) and you're looking for the perfect way to start a summer day (read: way too hot in the sun), an adventuresome three pitch route awaits you. Silver Threads lies just lower than the bottom edge of The Witch (Pit and the Pendulum/Witch Doctor). Start around 100m down from the lower West face at a corner system with a large boulder resting against the face just left (an obvious clearing).

Pitch 1 climbs the low angle corner and crosses to the boulder. Sling it with a double shoulder sling (for the psych of it) and look up. Another corner is between 10-15 meters up and slightly left and it has your next piece. The climbing is somewhere between 5.4-5.6 and you can't fall, so sack up and do it. The corner on up is a little dirty, but you're an adventure climber and you eat this grit for breakfast. A bit of wide with grain and you've reached the 5.10- corner. There's some green in it, probably like Igor before the masses smacked Mother Nature down. Nevertheless, the stems and locks make this a fun section. I'd belay below the roof no matter what the Internet/Guidebook indicates, because you're here to have fun, not stretch every pitch with the 70m noose you've been luggin' around.

Pitch 2 is a layback through the roof and then pulls down on thin, seemingly fragile flakes. Pumpy at the start and sublime to continue, with flakes so thin yet so fun. At the apex of the next roof shove that big piece in you've been saving and move directly left to the 3 bolt belay. Sneer at the guy bailing on Phosphorescent Flow as you make the move 'cause you know you're off the beaten path and his sports bra wearing girlfriend really wants to meet you.

Pitch 3 moves directly left to the thin, right facing flakes. Then it's up and improbably right through the shallow roof (ignore the fact that while your partner is just going to crank confidently through the wafer thin roof features, you need to exhale and think fluffy thoughts). From there is a romp where you can layback, jam, and haul your way to the top on ever larger flakes.

Descend The Black Rabbit, via a rap station around 25m to the climber's left.

Protection

Full rack (including a middle school # 4 Camalot), finger sizes helpful, and small pieces (blue alien, 00 Camalots) are nice for the 3rd pitch.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Flakes on Pitch 2. The flakes are a bit hollow sounding, and gear is a bit suspect, but the climbing is pretty unique.
[Hide Photo] Flakes on Pitch 2. The flakes are a bit hollow sounding, and gear is a bit suspect, but the climbing is pretty unique.
The corner on the upper half of Pitch 1 is quite vegetated. But some spots have been cleaned out for gear and finger locks. This would be a really nice corner climb if the vegetation were cleaned out.
[Hide Photo] The corner on the upper half of Pitch 1 is quite vegetated. But some spots have been cleaned out for gear and finger locks. This would be a really nice corner climb if the vegetation were cleaned out.
Flakes on Pitch 2. The flakes are a bit hollow sounding, and gear is a bit suspect, but the climbing is pretty unique.
[Hide Photo] Flakes on Pitch 2. The flakes are a bit hollow sounding, and gear is a bit suspect, but the climbing is pretty unique.
Rob Beno leading P1 of Silver Threads. The left-leaning corner 20' above the climber is dirty and vegetated. The attractive yellow flakes of P2 & P3 can be seen above.
[Hide Photo] Rob Beno leading P1 of Silver Threads. The left-leaning corner 20' above the climber is dirty and vegetated. The attractive yellow flakes of P2 & P3 can be seen above.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Probably doesn't get the traffic it deserves. An overlooked Needles classic. Aug 9, 2009
D. Evans
Tustin, California
[Hide Comment] Margy says, "Sorry Murf, she really wants to meet Andy!!!" Nov 12, 2009
[Hide Comment] New anchor bolts on Silver Threads as of 6-20-2017. Pulled the bent 1/4″ button heads, reused the holes and installed 3/8″ 2″3/4 wedge bolts. Jun 21, 2017
[Hide Comment] I always remembered Silver Threads as a fun and varied route with a fine flake finish. There is another two pitch route to its right called Sports Slab. As far as I know it has never been repeated as it is quite intense face climbing with good protection. I'm curious to know if anyone has done it and what they think about it. Herb Laeger Sep 4, 2022
[Hide Comment] Herb, I’ve only top-roped Sport Slab but thought it was pretty amazing. A slab test piece on perfect rock. It’s rare to have a route of this distinctly old-school style but with comfortable bolt spacing… the name is fitting. I did all the moves, but fell multiple times sussing it out. I wouldn’t know how to grade it - in the 12a to 12d range? I concluded I’d need near-freezing temps to give it an honest effort but never made it a priority. Sep 4, 2022