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Routes in Mugu Slab

Classic Dihedral T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 521 total, 5/month
Shared By: Matthew Fienup on Aug 5, 2009
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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This wall is currently closed. The closure is agressively enforced by the CHP. Details


Obvious right-facing dihedral in the middle of the wall.

The most unusual feature of this route is that is once ended near a fixed anchor near the top of the wall. During the past decade, the dihedral receded 5 feet (a 5-foot wide column of rock collapsed, moving the dihedral 5 feet to the left). Now, it is nearly impossible to reach the fixed anchor. It is possible to climb to a wide ledge above and then walk off; however, this is sketchy enough that one might decide to simply down-climb and back clean the route.


Bisects the wall, with a clean slab on the right and a fractured wall on the left.


Tiny to 2-inches.

The crack is so loose that all of the gear is sketchy (many cam placements simply open the crack wider when weighted).


Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
I climbed this route about 8 years ago, after the collapse of part of the dihedral. All of the gear was scary. And as mentioned in the route description, the walk off was daunting enough that I actually chose to downclimb the route, cleaning my gear as I went. Aug 5, 2009