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Routes in Mugu Slab

Classic Dihedral T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 521 total, 5/month
Shared By: Matthew Fienup on Aug 5, 2009
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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This wall is currently closed. The closure is agressively enforced by the CHP. Details

Description

Obvious right-facing dihedral in the middle of the wall.

The most unusual feature of this route is that is once ended near a fixed anchor near the top of the wall. During the past decade, the dihedral receded 5 feet (a 5-foot wide column of rock collapsed, moving the dihedral 5 feet to the left). Now, it is nearly impossible to reach the fixed anchor. It is possible to climb to a wide ledge above and then walk off; however, this is sketchy enough that one might decide to simply down-climb and back clean the route.

Location

Bisects the wall, with a clean slab on the right and a fractured wall on the left.

Protection

Tiny to 2-inches.

The crack is so loose that all of the gear is sketchy (many cam placements simply open the crack wider when weighted).

Photos

Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
 
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
 
I climbed this route about 8 years ago, after the collapse of part of the dihedral. All of the gear was scary. And as mentioned in the route description, the walk off was daunting enough that I actually chose to downclimb the route, cleaning my gear as I went. Aug 5, 2009