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Routes in Box Canyon (Central)

3 1/2 Foot Assassin V7 7A+
Cracked Sky V7-8 7B
Get On the Good Foot V2 5+
Isla in the Sky V5-6 6C+
Left Foot Dancing V1 5
Murtle V1 5
Prizefighter V7 7A+
Prow V2 5+
Tiny Fingercrack Roof (5.11b) V1 5
Unknown 1 V3 6A
Type: Boulder, 10 ft
FA: someone?
Page Views: 1,077 total, 11/month
Shared By: half-pad-mini-jug on Aug 5, 2009
Admins: Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

Prizefighter starts standing on good holds on the arete, make a few moves up the arete on good holds to a long move to a crimp and a commiting mantle on small crystals. Downclimb the tree to get off the boulder. Very fun!!

Location

Take the trail up Box Canyon to where it Ys, take the right trail for maybe twenty feet, and you'll see the huge balanced boulder that is not held up by anything but the rock it sits on. Right by the picnic area with an amazing arete.

Protection

Pads. Spotter would be nice for the mantle, but not neccessary. Be careful not to tip the boulder over....

Photos

half-pad-mini-jug
crauschville
 
half-pad-mini-jug   crauschville
 
Cool, thanks for the info, Justin. I figured Scarpelli or some old-schooler had climbed it before, it's a much better problem to ride the arete till the apex and mantle! It's a fun problem regardless! Jun 23, 2010
JNE
JNE  
Walking through Box Canyon this weekend with Bob Scarpelli, he pointed this boulder out and asked if I had ever done it. He told me it is an old school problem that was once upon a time referred to as 5.10-, though instead of going up to the mantle they would just lie back up the rail a few feet and then throw a heel and mantle onto the scoop shaped slab, then top out. It seems that Prizefighter would be a variation to this problem in that mantling onto the slab would be off, and instead one continues up the rail and mantles at the apex of the boulder instead. Bob did not know the name of the problem as it predates his time there and is from a period where such things were undocumented and generally not named.

Not being a dick, just sharing some cool history. Knowing this it is interesting and cool to see how climbing has evolved over the years. Jun 23, 2010
half-pad-mini-jug
crauschville
 
half-pad-mini-jug   crauschville
 
Thanks for the info Molony, I figured it had been done, I don't see how anyone could pass up this cool looking problem, you should try it, it's so much fun! If the first ascentionist has a name for it, let me know. I'm not trying to claim fa's on someone else's problem, I'm just trying to post problems so people can enjoy the amazing bouldering Vedauwoo has to offer. (That's what this site is for, if I'm not mistaken....) Aug 10, 2009
molony  
This has been done before, very few times. Couldn't find any info on the FA or the name though. Aug 9, 2009
half-pad-mini-jug
crauschville
 
half-pad-mini-jug   crauschville
 
I'm not sure if this was an FA.... It's not in Davin's guidebook, but it's right by the trail and it looks so inviting, so it may have been done, let me know if you know. I'm sure Davin or Edl knows.... Aug 5, 2009