Type: Trad, TR, 40 ft
FA: Stettner
Page Views: 609 total · 5/month
Shared By: Tradiban on Aug 4, 2009
Admins: Burton Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge

You & This Route


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Description

Typical DL 5.6, can be strenuous and devious.

Location

Start below the right side of the ceiling. Staying in the crack is harder. Climb past the ceiling and follow the crack to the south platform.
Getting down might be interesting, climb to the top of buttress and up a small gully to a gully you can down climb to the SW.

Protection

DL Style.

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Photos

Laura stays *well* out of the wide crack!
Laura stays *well* out of the wide crack!
 0
getting out of the crack
getting out of the crack
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Stettner's climbs to the right side of this roof.
Stettner's climbs to the right side of this roof.
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3 Comments

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Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
 
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
 
It helps to have a little off-width technique for this one, but the key to keeping this 5.6 is to not get too sucked into the wide crack.

Gear could be a #10 and #11 hex and a long sling around a chockstone, or the #4, #5, and #6 BD Camalots. There is an old horizontal knifeblade to your right once you are past the crux, but it is in a position that would break your carabiner if you fell on it.

It's fun to continue on up the lower-angled buttress above the South Platform (which is the top of Stettner's) and then up "Nonconformist" (bold 5.7) or the "Keyhole Chimney" (5.4, another piece of wide gear would be handy) to the top of the Keyhole and a pinnacle-like perch. Jul 19, 2010
Tradiban
  5.6
Tradiban  
  5.6
A very interesting route that is over too soon. The only gear I got was some small wires in a horizontal seam on the left. Continuing to the top to Keyhole is recommended. Rapped off a tree to get down. I think only a Big Bro would have been wide enough to help in the crack. Nov 11, 2010
Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
 
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
 
We stayed pretty completely out of the crack at the crux, except for handholds.

Horizontal crack on the right at the crux took a decent pink tricam. Got a #5 C4 above. Oct 5, 2011