Type: Trad, Aid, 100 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: Paul Ross Andy Ross. May 2 2000
Page Views: 1,795 total · 15/month
Shared By: USBRIT Ross on Aug 4, 2009
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Notice the topo in Desert Rock IV. "Beyond the 80th Meridian" mostly aids up a groove system on the West side of the spires ,then goes up to the right (South) to the base of the SOUTH TOWER this last pitch of the variation was aided by that party with some of those sliders that fitted into drill holes,here the party linked onto the already established route up the actual SOUTH KACHINA Tower ..(NOTE>This is incorrectly named NORTH TOWER in the Bjorstad guide description section). . The FA of NORTH TOWER (Incorrectly titled THE SOUTH TOWER in the description section of the Bjorstad guide, however the topo is correct)) was climbed later in May by Ross and Ross via the same three original pitches to reach the South Tower.From here the FA party climbed and rapped to the notch between the towers (see guide)Then a 5.9 pitch passed two bolts to the large ledge below the true tower.Here the Ross party climbed the north side of the tower placing about seven bolts and cams to an excellent summit.Descent... Rap the Tower then a short rap to the gap. From here the FA party found the drill holes and rap anchors of the western variation route "Beyond The Meridian". Rap this route 180' to the ground.

Location

Kachina Towers, Hell Roaring Canyon,20 air miles from Moab . see Desert Rock IV,by Eric Bjornstad

Protection

Cams Friends(1)set #2 through #5 ,quick draws ,aiders, tie offs .

Photos

Paul S
Fruita, CO
 
Paul S   Fruita, CO
 
Instead of doing the awkward rappel to the notch, it's possible to do a double rope rappel to the ground. We equalized the single bolt with a knot that we slid into a little gash to the right of the bolt. It's a small little gash, but it held some bounce testing without blowing. Nov 2, 2014
Trevor Bowman
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Trevor Bowman   Flagstaff, AZ
 
Someone added a 2nd bolt to this anchor that Paul describes, so you can rap off this now 2 bolt anchor to the 1st pitch anchor on Beyond the 80th Meridian and then to the ground in 2 raps with a single 70m rope. Apr 13, 2018