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Routes in Ape Rage Boulder

French Tits V5-6 6C+
Intension V6 7A
Unknown - Squeeze problem V1 5
Unknown - lowball V6-7 7A+
Type: Boulder, 12 ft
FA: Jeremy Kane
Page Views: 1,128 total, 11/month
Shared By: TravisMelin on Aug 4, 2009
Admins: Jay Shultis, Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

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Description

Stand start in the center of the face on two edges left foot on the spike reach up and left to a delicate sloper with a dimple, big move out right to the arete (Ape Rage), work up to a good pinch crux move to seam at apex of boulder (Ape Range). Micro-crimp on face for short man beta.

Name beta. Legend has it that Jeremy did not have a name for the problem. While discussing the days sends over beers Kane and Co were trying to describe the problem. Something to the order of "you know that problem where we were talking about French Tits." Ape Rage followed shortly after by peers due to the huge Ape Span move and long reach to the top. This may have never been officially named, but several names have taken hold.

Location

This route is just off of the left hand side of the faint approach trail.

Protection

Pad

Photos

Jay Shultis
Oneonta, NY
  V6
Jay Shultis   Oneonta, NY  
  V6
I have heard ratings from V4-V6. Some feel the deadpoint is natural, some never figure it out. Quite the moderate test piece. If you live in the area, this MUST be on your short list.

I have heard Ape Rage, Ape Range, French Titties, Witches Tit. Considering how many unnamed, or unknown named problems are at Bozoo this one has quite the lore. Feb 6, 2013