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Venice Beach

5.8, Sport, 75 ft,  Avg: 2.1 from 301 votes
FA: Kirk Miller, Kirk Raney
Colorado > Golden > Clear Creek Canyon > The Canal Zone
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: Temporary Closures starting July 25 Details

Description

Pump it up as you haul through the starting jugs, then style your way to the anchors. Paint a righteous picture, dude!

Location

This is left of Holiday Road.

Protection

9 bolts to chains.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The anchors on the left are for Venice Beach, and the anchors to the right are for the second (easier) finish for Holiday Road.
[Hide Photo] The anchors on the left are for Venice Beach, and the anchors to the right are for the second (easier) finish for Holiday Road.
Rizzo getting back into it on Venice Beach.
[Hide Photo] Rizzo getting back into it on Venice Beach.
Lindsey starting Venice Beach.
[Hide Photo] Lindsey starting Venice Beach.
Lindsey climbing high on Venice Beach.  Second day ever climbing!
[Hide Photo] Lindsey climbing high on Venice Beach. Second day ever climbing!
Marina Del Rey.
[Hide Photo] Marina Del Rey.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Crag Dweller
New York, NY
  5.9
[Hide Comment] Climbed this on 5/27. An enjoyable climb that will clean up nicely with a little time and traffic. Either I didn't see a couple key holds through the slabby section about 2/3 of the way up or this is one of the most challenging 5.8s I've climbed.

Edit: I climbed this again on 9/18 and, either because the route is now cleaner or because I was paying more attention or both, route finding through the slabby section was much easier. Aug 30, 2009
Jon Sinclair
Lafayette, CO
[Hide Comment] There is a headwall at the 6th or 7th bolt that requires some thin moves. The crux comes right at the bolt with very little with which to make the clip. This 5 or 6 feet of climbing puts the grade at 5.9+. Pretty tough for a 5.8 leader. May 9, 2011
Matt Pierce
Denver, CO
  5.8+
[Hide Comment] The slabby section everyone speaks of was the crux in my opinion - was a tough lead for me. Also, Holiday Road is very close to you on the right and it's easy to be lured just off route to the right (you can see chalk there, etc.), but that is part of Holiday Road. Stay on the slab as there is at least 1 nice left hand crimper to use. Route is in good shape as of yesterday. May 23, 2012
[Hide Comment] In October 2013, Dale Haas and I replaced the hardware at the anchor with SS quicklinks and SS rings. The hardware was provided by the American Safe Climbing Association (ASCA) (www.safeclimbing.org). They appreciate your support. Jun 18, 2014
[Hide Comment] Impressive crux for 5.8. Definitely felt 5.9 to 9+ even in Clear Creek. Aug 4, 2014
Holly Killen-Vesco
Denver, Colorado
  5.8
[Hide Comment] Super fun. Great climb. Probably my favorite of the grade there. Sep 27, 2014
Theodore Morrow
Golden, Co
  5.6
[Hide Comment] Very easy climb. If you compare it to climbing in Eldo or even Boulder Canyon. it feels like 5.7 or 5.6. Good warm-up or for a beginner leader, very well-protected with bolts, similar to a climbing gym. Feb 18, 2016
Mark Dunn
Moab, UT
  5.8+
[Hide Comment] Fun route. A juggy bottom section leads to a few balancy moves and then a 5.8+ slab section. Not terribly hard, but people not familiar with slabs might find it a kinda heady lead. Jul 18, 2018
Mark Andes
Golden, CO
 
[Hide Comment] For me, this is one of my two favorite 5.8s at Canal Zone. More sustained (in a good way) than most of the 5.8s which tend to vary more wildly in difficulty. Sep 27, 2018