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Routes in Vulture Lookout

Double Jeopardy Cracks T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Duracell T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Energizer, The T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Gram Cracker T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Gyno Cracks T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Magic Mushroom TR 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Missing Piece T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
V (aka The Vulva), The T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
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Type: TR, 40 ft
Page Views: 1,072 total · 10/month
Shared By: Tradiban on Aug 3, 2009
Admins: Burton Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

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Description [Suggest Change]

Three boulder problems separated by two resting horizontals. The following words describe this climb: "Bouldery", "Shouldery", "Body Tension", "Technical" and "Intricate".

Location [Suggest Change]

This route is a tall face to the right of "Missing Piece".

Protection [Suggest Change]

TR or good gear in the horizontals


Who has climbed this thing? It is HARD!

FYI, watch out for the tree, it will stab you in the back, literally. Aug 3, 2009
Alex A
Alex A  
FYI, The DLFA did not do the 1st ascent, was done by Alex Andrews and Pete Cleveland, Nov 5, 2009
I did this route before you where even coming to the lake with Dave Salsbury.But if it keeps you in CO you can claim the first ascent of this massive 30 foot route.I think one of the new breed of DL climbers who are not afraid to lead hard routes should lead it or think of it as a boulder problem. Nov 6, 2009
Alex A
Alex A  
If you did it that long ago why was it not in the Extremist guide or the Extremist guide 2, I did it a longtime ago, and named it, think it's BS you did it, and did not blow your horn, by putting it in the guide, and it was not in your notes for the new routes for the new guide book, better to be in CO, and doing new routes to me and 1st ascents vs doing the same climbs over and over, Nov 25, 2009
Say it dont spray it.If it is better for you in CO why do you keep spraying about this stupid little route.Was it hard to find a rope long enough to toprope in CO?Like I said in my last post you can have the first ascent just stay out of my life forever. Nov 28, 2009
Steve Sangdahl
eldo sprngs,co
Steve Sangdahl   eldo sprngs,co
yo punters chill out.
Alex, I have no reason to doubt Rich's claim of the FA.I well remember when Duke o puke Sloshbury told me of their fa of this line and it was long before you started hanging with Pete. Saying DL climbers are doing the same old routes is an insult to them.
I do beleive the climbers at dl are finding new routes and new ways to climb some of the old ones...i.e the leading of some of the harder climbs that we were to weak and scared to pull off.
peace and fuk-nes steve s. Nov 29, 2009
The FA of "DLFA" stands. Although, it hasn't really been climbed until someone leads it anyway.

By the way, thanks for inspiration old schoolers. Next season will be another send-a-thon I think! Nov 30, 2009
Steve Sangdahl
eldo sprngs,co
Steve Sangdahl   eldo sprngs,co
Nick, I'm psyched to see some of these harder climbs finally get done .You guys are pulling down. Its good to hear that we provide some "sort" of inspiration and also your efforts inspire my climbing too. Also nice job on Acid Rock,it proves Jason is not a freak....or does it. If ya make it Eldo to look me up. Pull Down Cut loose Throw up.
peace steve s. Nov 30, 2009
Steve,I salute your jakness you are a true unsung hero of Devils Lake and beyond.This has been a wierd week for me.After spending the summer and fall hospitalized or recovering I made it up to DL for a short hike around the lake.The first thing that caught my I was the old tree on the south shore that you always parked your orange Fiat under.After my hike I went and visited with Pete C. the first time in many years. Then a few days later Billy Russell called and we talked of the old days.I agree it is great to see these young guys repeating our routes in much better stlye and knocking off new test pieces.My only hope is that when they are busy in the grips of Extremism we can steal there girlfriends and sisters and hightail it to Mexico! Dec 2, 2009
Steve Sangdahl
eldo sprngs,co
Steve Sangdahl   eldo sprngs,co
CLUB SALUTE !!!!! enough said Dec 12, 2009
I should add that this route starts "3-4ft left of the cracks on the right" per the guidebook. I think the idea is to go straight up from there but after the horizontal it seems to be impossible! Aug 26, 2010
Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
Led?!! Wow! Aug 8, 2013
Madison, WI
Remo   Madison, WI
Rhoads, he did! Aug 14, 2013

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