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Musafar's Home Cookin'

5.9, Trad, Alpine, 600 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III,  Avg: 1.7 from 3 votes
FA: D. Haller, S. Finkelstein, B. Collett
Colorado > Alpine Rock > Mt Evans > Tan Buttresses

Description

This route goes up the flying buttress on the far right of the main section of the Tan Buttresses. The climbing is not quite as good as the buttress looks, but it still is very fun and well protected.

P1. Follow easy and somewhat vegetated crack and groove systems about 120 feet up and left to belay on a ledge system on the left side of the flying buttress. This pitch was about 5.7.

P2. Step left around the corner and climb a nice, steep, corner system that follows the arete for about 40 feet. Continue up the corner until you hit a pleasant ledge with good gear at 80 feet. 5.9.

P3. Follow the obvious corner system that starts from the left side of the ledge to a fun chimney section. Exit the chimney to a ledge system on the right and head up about 15 feet to another friendly belay on the arete.

P4. Step a couple feet left from the belay and follow a corner system to crest of the ridge following a wide hands section for a while. Follow the ridge past a really cool bit of face climbing and continue up the ridge past a steep step with a wide section past some large blocks. This is probably the best pitch on the route. 140 feet. 5.9.

P5. Continue up the ridge on easy ground until you feel happy unroping and scrambling to the top of the buttress.

Location

Descend past Nuthin' But a Good Time and Goat Food, following the ledge system to the end of the buttress. Start on the right side of the front of the flying buttress.

Protection

Standard rack. We did have a #5 C4 which was nice for P4.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The route.
[Hide Photo] The route.
Starting the first pitch.
[Hide Photo] Starting the first pitch.
View of the flying buttress.
[Hide Photo] View of the flying buttress.
Doug on the chimney on the 3rd pitch. From here, climb onto the ledge on the right traverse around 15ft right and up to a belay near the crest of the ridge.<br>
Photo: Dan Gambino.
[Hide Photo] Doug on the chimney on the 3rd pitch. From here, climb onto the ledge on the right traverse around 15ft right and up to a belay near the crest of the ridge. Photo: Dan Gambino.
Pitch 4. The crux of Goat Food is the shaded corner on the left side of the picture.<br>
Photo: Dan Gambino.
[Hide Photo] Pitch 4. The crux of Goat Food is the shaded corner on the left side of the picture. Photo: Dan Gambino.
Seth on Pitch 2. The pitch ends on the nice ledge up and left of him.<br>
Photo: Dan Gambino.
[Hide Photo] Seth on Pitch 2. The pitch ends on the nice ledge up and left of him. Photo: Dan Gambino.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

J. Thompson
denver, co
[Hide Comment] This is an extremely eye catching line.

Good stuff boys!looking forward to climbing it!

josh Aug 19, 2009
AOSR
Wherever we park!
 
[Hide Comment] Had a good time here. P2 and P3 were both enjoyable. Not sure what happened on P4 - maybe I didn't step far enough left, but I ended up at the rightmost face of the fin. There was a a short couple of moves on the face that led to two huge blocks forming seemingly great cracks allowing one to surmount the slight overhang/roof there. However, once I got up to it I realized the right block was not just huge, but also hollow and really loose. I looked for any other way to go before committing to it. I touched it as little as possible and made it by without sending it. I'm pretty sure is would have killed my partner and likely destroyed my rope/gear below it. It was very heady.

I assume I was off route therefore I can't really speak to the grade of the entire route. The line I did didn't ever seem harder than 5.8 though for what it's worth. Sep 20, 2010