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Musafar's Home Cookin'
Trad, Alpine, 600 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III,
Avg: 1.7 from 3
FA: D. Haller, S. Finkelstein, B. Collett
> Alpine Rock
> Mt Evans
> Tan Buttresses
This route goes up the flying buttress on the far right of the main section of the Tan Buttresses. The climbing is not quite as good as the buttress looks, but it still is very fun and well protected.
P1. Follow easy and somewhat vegetated crack and groove systems about 120 feet up and left to belay on a ledge system on the left side of the flying buttress. This pitch was about 5.7.
P2. Step left around the corner and climb a nice, steep, corner system that follows the arete for about 40 feet. Continue up the corner until you hit a pleasant ledge with good gear at 80 feet. 5.9.
P3. Follow the obvious corner system that starts from the left side of the ledge to a fun chimney section. Exit the chimney to a ledge system on the right and head up about 15 feet to another friendly belay on the arete.
P4. Step a couple feet left from the belay and follow a corner system to crest of the ridge following a wide hands section for a while. Follow the ridge past a really cool bit of face climbing and continue up the ridge past a steep step with a wide section past some large blocks. This is probably the best pitch on the route. 140 feet. 5.9.
P5. Continue up the ridge on easy ground until you feel happy unroping and scrambling to the top of the buttress.
Descend past Nuthin' But a Good Time and Goat Food, following the ledge system to the end of the buttress. Start on the right side of the front of the flying buttress.
Standard rack. We did have a #5 C4 which was nice for P4.