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Unknown 1
5.10+,
Trad, 80 ft (24 m),
Avg: 3.3 from 26
votes
FA: John Rich and friends, mid '80s
Oregon
> Central Oregon
> Trout Creek
> Main Wall
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure 2020 UPDATE/Private Land Boundaries
Details
2020 Seasonal Raptor Closure Update: Trout Creek is open to climbing on May 15, 2020. The Golden Eagles have nested on the Warm Springs side of the formation.
SEASONAL RAPTOR CLOSURE TAKES EFFECT JAN 15 EACH YEAR. Climbers have demonstrated 100% compliance rate and must continue. Violators are subject to a ticket and fine. The BLM will be monitoring the territory, which includes all of the crags and the approach trails. The closure could be partially lifted May 15th, depending on the nesting scenarios.
blm.gov/or/districts/prinev… blm.gov/or/districts/prinev… ADJACENT PRIVATE LAND
Please respect adjacent private landowners. While the climbing area is mainly BLM, a portion of the cliff and access may be on private property. However the entirety of the Main Wall is public with a solid buffer of space before the boundary, so you are allowed to access up above that wall. Please be aware of the rest of the private land above the cliff though. Local climbers have established a positive relationship with the adjacent private property owners and it is important to maintain their trust for long-term access.
Description
Straightforward climbing up a twin crack-stembox takes you to the flake. The crux kicks in once you leave the flake. Most agree that 5.10 is kind of a stiff grade for this route. (it's been dubbed by some, 'the ruiner,' in reference to how their day went after 'warming up' on this route)
Location
Climb the double crack-stembox 3 lines right of JR Token. Has a distinctive loose-looking flake at 3/4 height that's actually quite solid.
Protection
Doubles from BD .3-2 plus some thinner gear for the crux will be more than adequate.
Riverside, Ca