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Routes in Secteur 21 - Pilier des fourmis

Barouilles S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Vaugreray's Sisters S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 98 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 30 total, 0/month
Shared By: Jason Halladay on Aug 1, 2009
Admins: Euan Cameron, Luc-514

You & This Route


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Description

You'll be heavily enticed by the extremely huecoed, overhanging section of this route about 20 feet up. Thus, it's easy to identify. Start up on huge, man-made jugs that served as post holes for the roof of an old structure at the base of the wall dating back to Wars of Religion.
Pull through the tough, sequential initial section to gain those beautiful, fun huecos above. Haul through them onto the face and a tricky move before a big hole where you can sit down inside and rest if you'd like. Rest well--the next section is the crux.
Figure out how to climb up the blunt arete just left of the big hole and up onto the upper slab. You'll never be so happy to reach slab until after that crux move below you. Slab it up to one final tricky slab move before the anchors.

Location

In the Secteur Barouilles. The route is right of the obvious buttress that splits the main wall. The name is very faintly painted at the base but it'll be obvious when you spot the amazing huecos just right of the bolted dihedral route called "Pilier des Fourmis".

Protection

12+ bolts to a bolts/chain anchor. Note the length--a single 60m rope just barely makes it.

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