Avg: 2.7 from 3 votes
|Type:||Sport, 80 ft|
|Page Views:||755 total · 7/month|
|Shared By:||BBQ on Jul 30, 2009|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty|
An epic summit for a confident 5.10 leader. I had the privilege of following one of the needles' more accomplished rock monkeys up this exceptionally aesthetic, and not too terribly difficult intermediate climb. After clinging tenaciously to a climb on Queen Pin known as Dairy Queen, which is listed as a 5.10b, Organized Climb offered me a fairly challenging, yet cruiser and, very enjoyable way to summit King Pin during the height of the Sturgis Motorcycle Rally. Belaying a lead climber is much easier than Ten Pins climbs since you can stand close to the highway, and get gawked at by what seems to be hundreds of highly entertained tourists both in cars and motorcycles. My intrepid partner and I must have ended up in countless photographs and scrapbooks that day as we enjoyed a very doable climb and sat on the summit counting blue cars and pretending the motorcyclists were toys we could move up and down the highway with our fingertips. This created the ultimate classic moment for both of us, worthy of a passage straight from "Touch the Sky".
This is the route most people trip over as they make their way up the path to get to the starts of Tent Peg and Super Pin. As you pass by King Pin, look for a long crack in a bright orange streak (this is a route called Quartz Jester, to the right of this crack is a what appears to be a gully to nowhere. Belay from the trail and climb up into the gully until you get on top of a pedestal. Start traversing to your right, the first bolt is hard to find by once you've clipped in the rest of the bolts are obvious and placed together close enough to make this one of the few climbs in this area that can be called well protected. The only real runout is getting to the first bolt, the only real five ten move is getting past this first bolt. If you've convinced yourself that you'll never sit on top of one of these fabulous rock formations in the Ten Pins area, think again, if you can summit The Pawn, you can use this route to summit King Pin.
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