PRINT: Rock Climb Apex, Wasatch Range

Apex

5.7+, Trad, 90 ft (27 m),

Avg: 2.3 from 24 votes
FA: unknown
Utah > Wasatch Range > Northern Wasatch > Ogden > Ogden Canyon > Utah Wall

Apex

The route is directly to the left of Shotgun beginning it follows the discontinuous cracks and corner angling to the left and pulls the roof continuing to the right towards the anchors for Shotgun. There is a fixed pin that can be clipped when pulling the roof. The protection is a little tricky above the roof.

A standard rack works fine the largest piece I used was a #3 C4.

This route is a must do in Ogden Canyon.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Richard under the roof on apex.

Old piton above the roof

Apex before the roof

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

wasatch-mtn-man

5.7+

Did this on TR today. I think it would actually be easier to lead this since you wouldn't have the rope issues to deal with on the overhang. The roof on this is certainly more difficult to surmount than on Shotgun and I think the roof LG&M seems easier. Just me? Sep 17, 2010

jeffozozo
santa clara, utah

5.7+

This is a really great climb for a new trad leader. There are lots of places to put all different kinds of protection. The stances to place the pro are all good. The move from the "apex" of the roof out onto the face is fantastic, but it felt a little harder than a 5.7 move. None of the rest of the climb is any harder than 5.5 or 5.6 Oct 21, 2010

Neil Johnson
Salt Lake City, Utah

Up to the roof was really fun, but the traverse over to the chains for "Shotgun" completely ruined it for me. Its difficult to protect, and the rope drag can get really bad. Jun 2, 2014

Mike Gee
Ogden, UT

5.7

Takes good planning to protect going for the roof without causing rope drag. But after doing it once I'd avoid a cam right before the roof bulge, the roof has great holds/ position. 120 sling for the piton was good. after that it's 5.easy traversing... though going left instead looked like more climbing, with a small crack for plenty of pro. Jul 20, 2024