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Routes in Utah Wall

Airtime T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Apex T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Apex Right T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
I Love My Wife But She Doesn't Climb T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
In The Pink T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lawyers, Guns, and Money T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Right of the Roof T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Shotgun T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Shotgun (Variation) T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown (TR) S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Unnamed T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unnamed Dihedral T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Utah Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
unknown (right most crack in the roof) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 101 total, 1/month
Shared By: Tom Powell on Jul 28, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Apex

The route is directly to the left of Shotgun beginning it follows the discontinuous cracks and corner angling to the left and pulls the roof continuing to the right towards the anchors for Shotgun. There is a fixed pin that can be clipped when pulling the roof. The protection is a little tricky above the roof.

A standard rack works fine the largest piece I used was a #3 C4.

This route is a must do in Ogden Canyon.

Photos

Neil Johnson
Salt Lake City, Utah
 
Neil Johnson   Salt Lake City, Utah
 
Up to the roof was really fun, but the traverse over to the chains for "Shotgun" completely ruined it for me. Its difficult to protect, and the rope drag can get really bad. Jun 2, 2014
jeffozozo
santa clara, utah
  5.7+
jeffozozo   santa clara, utah
  5.7+
This is a really great climb for a new trad leader. There are lots of places to put all different kinds of protection. The stances to place the pro are all good. The move from the "apex" of the roof out onto the face is fantastic, but it felt a little harder than a 5.7 move. None of the rest of the climb is any harder than 5.5 or 5.6 Oct 21, 2010
wasatch-mtn-man
  5.7+
wasatch-mtn-man  
  5.7+
Did this on TR today. I think it would actually be easier to lead this since you wouldn't have the rope issues to deal with on the overhang. The roof on this is certainly more difficult to surmount than on Shotgun and I think the roof LG&M seems easier. Just me? Sep 17, 2010