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Routes in Rhinoceros Rock

Chockstone Pinnacle S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Hairy Horn T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Northwest Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, Sport, 140 ft, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 154 total, 2/month
Shared By: Paul Huebner on Jul 27, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route

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This is a fun route that can be led in two or even three pitches. The second pitch is unprotected as you approach the so-called window or balcony. The third pitch is quite short and leads to the airy east summit. The view to the northeast includes the summit of Old People's Dome and the view to the southeast includes the entire climb called Inner Course on the Formation Youbet Jorasses.


The start of the route is in the middle of the large, slab-like Southwest Face of Rhinoceros Rock. The 1st bolt is placed a few feet above a small bush about 25 feet up the slab. There is the opportunity to place some gear below and just above and to the left of the 1st bolt.


The first pitch has 2 or 3 bolts and a nice 2-bolt anchor w/chains. The second pitch now has two bolts (8/14) and the crux of the climb is above well before you reach the safety of the Window or balcony stance near the top of the formation. Another nice 2-bolt anchor is located about head high on the wall just to your left as you face the Formation Youbet Jorasses and both of the anchor bolts are connected to a solid chain by large cold shuts. The third pitch leads straight up from the window, it only involves a couple of high steps to where there's a bolt. The summit has a 2-bolt anchor with webbing and two rappel rings. Recently rapped (8/14) from the anchors just above the Window or balcony stance with a 70m rope and still didn't make it all the way down. Two ropes are the safer alternative, especially for inexperienced climbers, or just rap to the lower anchor and repeat from there.