Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,236 total · 11/month
Shared By: Caleb Phillips on Jul 26, 2009
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


20 Opinions

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Description

Climb up an easy flake, then lieback or jam through a roof and fist-crack. Beach yourself on the bulge using a big ledge and then enjoy easy climbing to the anchors. A little awkward but worth doing.

Location

Line starting at the large left-leaning flake which is right of Woman in the Meadow.

Protection

The bottom 2/3 could be easily protected with gear. Has 2 hangers up top for a TR anchor.

Photos

Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.10b
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.10b
Good burly fun! I placed a #4 camalot, but one could do without. Sep 9, 2011
CritConrad
Bend, OR
 
CritConrad   Bend, OR
 
grovel grovel grovel! May 3, 2012
Phill T
 
Phill T  
 
if you are TRing this, flick your rope into the main crack before you start the undercling area. If you dont and blow it, you take a big swing (no big deal) but then your rope grinds on the pretty sharp edge of the roof when you swing back in. No bueno. Super fun route tho! May 18, 2012
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.10+
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.10+
I thought this to be an incredibly stiff 10b. After moving right under the roof, placing gear can be really difficult, as you're being forced away from the wall by the roof, and desperately laying back the edge without any decent jams and crazy high feet. Not terribly difficult on TR but definitely makes a heady lead. Aug 4, 2015