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Routes in Left Side

Burn Baby, Burn T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dat be up da Butt, Bob S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Eviction Notice T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Flower Power S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Gloryhole S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Havana Smack S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Heathen, The S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
If I Ran the Circus T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jungle Fever S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lamoidian Power Dance S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Limbo S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Metamorphic Dawning S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Morning Dew T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shiva S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sidewinder T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Torrid Zone S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Woman In The Meadow S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,056 total, 10/month
Shared By: Caleb Phillips on Jul 26, 2009
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


23 Opinions

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Description

Climb up an easy flake, then lieback or jam through a roof and fist-crack. Beach yourself on the bulge using a big ledge and then enjoy easy climbing to the anchors. A little awkward but worth doing.

Location

Line starting at the large left-leaning flake which is right of Woman in the Meadow.

Protection

The bottom 2/3 could be easily protected with gear. Has 2 hangers up top for a TR anchor.

Photos

Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.10+
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.10+
I thought this to be an incredibly stiff 10b. After moving right under the roof, placing gear can be really difficult, as you're being forced away from the wall by the roof, and desperately laying back the edge without any decent jams and crazy high feet. Not terribly difficult on TR but definitely makes a heady lead. Aug 4, 2015
Phill T
 
Phill T  
 
if you are TRing this, flick your rope into the main crack before you start the undercling area. If you dont and blow it, you take a big swing (no big deal) but then your rope grinds on the pretty sharp edge of the roof when you swing back in. No bueno. Super fun route tho! May 18, 2012
CritConrad
Bend, OR
 
CritConrad   Bend, OR
 
grovel grovel grovel! May 3, 2012
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.10b
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.10b
Good burly fun! I placed a #4 camalot, but one could do without. Sep 9, 2011