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Routes in Big Wall

Armstrong Arches. T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R
Boiler Plate Route T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Dartmouth Corner (a.k.a. Great Circle Route) T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
E12 T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Energizer T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Leading Cause variation right side. T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Leading cause T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
R&B T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rapper, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Revelations T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Spare Ribs T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Van Burren Route S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
White Lightning T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a X
giant dead tree corner, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 600 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: Unknown, 1937
Page Views: 358 total, 4/month
Shared By: bradley white on Jul 26, 2009
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

Climb corner 80ft to belay at dead tree. Tree was alive when Ted Hammond and I did the climb to the tree (1981). The rest of the climb from the Dead Tree belay area is a impenetrable bush filled arch directly ahead. On the highest section to these arches I traversed into where was a 1937 style piton in a crack within the corner arch. Crazy bushwhacker? The highest arching corner with it's bottom half elongated bush trees maximizing the space below me. The second time I did the traverse. On that day at the top of the cliff I dislodged a pick up truck block (I had no choice. The first time I did the climb I lay backed the boulder to exit. The second time I grabbed a rock underneath the boulder to lift myself up with. It broke off in my hand and a piece of it was left in place under the boulder the size approximate a golf ball. The boulder shifted onto it and stopped. I climbed left not touching it. Got the rope out of the way and with the lightness push of one finger the boulder did an an air drop 500ft onto the base of this tree. The trees roots held onto what they could consequently a dead upside down pine tree, a plume of powder 900+ft into the air. My second safe from the dangers of that boulder. Very cool plume of powder and a very sad event). I believe the climber who placed the pin was Jensen. Jensen probably traversed into this corner like I did. He could have started far to the right or east in one of the tree and dirt filled corners. There's a lot of rock in this area once a climber gets past these corners off the ground. This dead tree blocks the area from being climbed. 2009 the entire 100ft corner came down as a deep in depth rock slide including the tree. Looks like a good left facing corner crack pitch on solid white rock.

Location

The next corner east of The Great Circle Route.

Protection

We rappelled off of the tree while it was living. Energizer's bolted belay is in this area I believe.

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