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Routes in Sticks and Stones

Sticks and Stones T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Jim Pettigrew, Will Tyree and Phil Bircheff, January 1972
Page Views: 111 total, 1/month
Shared By: john durr on Jul 25, 2009
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

This is a varied and physical crack climb with everything from thin fingers to fist, but mostly really nice fingers and thin hands. It was much better than it looked from the base.

Three short pitches are recommended because you are likely to get rope drag.

Pitch 1 climb up to the bush, liebacking a wide bit (great #4 camelot here). Lieback past a insecure chimney to a finger/thin hand crack. Continue to a great ledge with a gear belay of small to medium cams. Excellent sustained climbing with great gear 5.10-.

Pitch 2 continue up the finger crack corner as it widens to off width, past a great knob. Gear belay just above the bulge on a great ledge. 5.9-.

Pitch 3 continue up the infrequent incipient finger crack with perfect small cams for gear and big knobs. 5.8-. Wrap some blocks on top for a belay.

Location

This route is on the right center of Sticks and Stone cliff, it is the obvious crack with a bush at the bottom.

Protection

Standard rack to 4" cam, include extra small cams to 2". No bolts or bolted belays.

Descend by rappeling 60 meters (two ropes) from the anchor above Friends in High Places or walk down east along the edge of the cliff.

Photos

phil w  
Sticks and Stones was always good but pretty dirty, so it got a top-down cleanin' this summer (2017), complete with bush trimmin' (Phrasing!). Hopefully some traffic keeps it a little cleaner for a while. Can be done in one long, 200 footer, easy to manage the drag. Great pitch, get on it! 6 days ago
Wet bush... Bring your gardening gloves. Sep 29, 2010