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Routes in Holloway Mountain

Changling, The S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Left Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Left Face T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Poplar Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Right Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Right Face TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
ShinBone T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Slab crack T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Unknown Crack 1 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown Crack 2 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, TR, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,025 total, 10/month
Shared By: Martin Jacaruso on Jul 25, 2009
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

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Description

A fun crack climb. There are some large flakes out to the right of the climb. Could do some fun stemming moves towards the top.

Location

The crack just to the right of The Changeling on the main wall.

Protection

Small to Med. sized gear for Trad. Will need to build an anchor at the top or top-out and walk off. If top roping, need long static line to use trees or could place a #11 nut in the rock behind the top of the route, and use it for one side of the anchor.

Photos

b.t.miller
Charlotte, NC
  5.9
b.t.miller   Charlotte, NC
  5.9
This is an excellent crack and a stiff 5.9 on lead because placing gear in the upper portion of the crack system carries a full "pump" value.

A standard NC trad rack is ideal with 0.4 and 0.5 BD cam's coming in big handy. NOTE: there is a diagonal crack on the left 'open book' face that you can easily see from the ground. You can place a #3 BD cam in the bottom of this crack to help protect the crux. Jul 14, 2014