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Routes in Big Wall

Armstrong Arches. T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R
Boiler Plate Route T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Dartmouth Corner (a.k.a. Great Circle Route) T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
E12 T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Energizer T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Leading Cause variation right side. T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Leading cause T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
R&B T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rapper, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Revelations T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Spare Ribs T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Van Burren Route S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
White Lightning T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a X
giant dead tree corner, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 600 ft, 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: Early 1980's Paul Duval and Chris Dube.
Page Views: 317 total, 3/month
Shared By: bradley white on Jul 25, 2009
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

Variation to pitch one and pitch two exist. Very old slings were found on our ascent of the lower half of the cliff. Ted Hammond led it all. I followed him in 1984?
1. Easy buttress to traverse left to the long right facing corner.
2. Up corner (5-8+) to its end to semi hanging belay.
3. Move right to shallow arches and up to long belay ledge. Sure 2-3 can be 1 pitch.
4. Ted went left and I went right after cleaning gear (5.10). Couldn't do the left way.
5. Belayed under the giant deteriorating ceiling arch climb the right end through the giant notch (5-7 short pitch and belay left on 2 bolts (semi hanging belay).
6. Climb the aid bolt ladder (5-10) to move left traversing passed a couple more bolts and trad gear (5-10+ friction). Ledges are reached belay below right diagonal arch a rope length pitch.
7. Follow arch (5-7) until it ends at another arch.
8. Follow another arch until it ends (5-7).
9. Last short pitch to top. Our short pitches can be combined to long ones.

Location

Below the highest and widest ceiling arch is a small buttress which is the start to this climb. After the easy buttress move left to gain the right facing inside corner.

Protection

Trad gear and 1/4" bolts. These bolts have got to be deteriorated. No rappel anchors.

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