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Problem P

V5, Boulder, 10 ft (3 m),  Avg: 2.2 from 5 votes
FA: unknown
California > Eastern Sierra > June Lake Area > June Lake Boul… > Bachar Boulders > Right Sector

Description

Start with left hand in a good slot and right on a small crimp. Get established on these holds then reach up right to the shallow finger pocket. Baredown on the right and bust a move with the left to a small slot hold near the top.

Once the right is on the jug on the top call it done.

The left arete is off! Use it and you can tick a V0.

Location

Left side of the small steep walled boulder at the right of the sector

Protection

Pads

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Finishing the crux sequence with the move to the lip.
[Hide Photo] Finishing the crux sequence with the move to the lip.
Starting the crux sequence
[Hide Photo] Starting the crux sequence

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Daniel Winsor
Bishop, CA
  V5
[Hide Comment] Hmm. The newest guidebook to the area calls for a start at two chest-height holds (which wouldn't be the left-hand slot described here) and the problem is listed as V5. We climbed this thing both staying off the arete (namely avoiding a heel hook about three feet off the ground) and using the arete, and I've gotta say they both felt V5. Staying off the arete is painful V5, using the arete is an actually-worth-doing V5 that was actually a lot of fun. Either way, don't head up and left to the arete, head straight up to the obvious hole/suitcase hold, it's sweeeeet. Jun 7, 2015
[Hide Comment] I sent without using the arete. I used little horizontal pockets just right of the arete. But i also didn’t use that heinous little shallow finger pocket. So did I even send? Contrived stuff.

Felt V3 for that way for the record. Jun 23, 2022
Euan Cameron
Mammoth Lakes, CA
  V5
[Hide Comment] The problem is a little contrived, but solid at a painful V5 when using the pocket Jun 23, 2022