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Routes in The Nose

Beak Buttress (the nose), The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Bert's climb T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Variations to Bert's Climb T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches, Grade III
FA: Bradley White, 1985
Page Views: 68 total, 1/month
Shared By: bradley white on Jul 23, 2009
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

The beginning first pitch variation someone chopped the the two bolts off!? I'll describe the climb as if they were still there. From the belay above the tongue move right by friction past 2 missing bolts (5-6) to gain the blueberry bush filled groove to the right or east. Climb the outside edges of the groove with a long run out until it ends and move up to notch (angle pin at your feat) move right (5-8-) and literally slap your hands onto friction face and go up it to Bert's Climb's inside corner top of his first pitch. You can also move left here at (5-6) to reenter Bert's climb first pitch. At the top of the second pitch belay, instead of moving up to dirt tree ramp, move right past bush ledges traverse up right or east past head wall until able to mantle onto friction slab (very exposed 5-6 run out) and meet up with belay of Bert's climb. Finish up Bert's Climb. This was a 2 day roped solo climb I did. I believed I was doing a first ascent. That opinion was corrected when I reached the (5-7) crux lay back crack above the ceiling crack. there I took out with my fingers 2 vintage pitons. I don't know if he did the balance beam traverse or climbed the oak tree. Maybe he did both on different days.

Location

Use the belay bolts above the foot of the slab tongue I made below the Beak Buttress. Walk off after Bert's Climb.

Protection

You'll have to run it out now where my bolts used to be. They would be rotten by now anyway. modern trad rack.

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