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Routes in The Nose

Beak Buttress (the nose), The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Bert's climb T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Variations to Bert's Climb T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Type: Trad, 600 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: Bert Jensen and companions, 1937
Page Views: 1,752 total, 17/month
Shared By: bradley white on Jul 23, 2009 with updates
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

Climb out right at the start to the Beak Buttress via narrow horizontal ledges to gain much height and exit right onto the large sloping ledge to belay at right facing corner. Go up left directly to short head wall to another sloping dike belay ledge surrounded by bushes. Climb straight up onto tree ramp. (Incidentally, here they put in a variation to return to the Beak Buttress by moving up and left.) Follow dirt and tree ramp until out of rope and belay off of nearest tree. Two ways up 1. Mantle up (5-7) onto narrow balance beam traverse (run out) to upside down corner with a crack to do ceiling moving left and out directly (5-7) to another crack to the face (5-7) that is lay backed to a large pine tree and step down to belay under long arch or 2. Go to the tree ramp ending at a large oak tree climbed to exit on to face above ceiling to the slab and friction up (5-6) to get to a pine tree, then go up face crack to move right to step down at large pine tree to same belay.
Climb the arch until it ends and escape left up crack for thirty ft of sustained 5-6. Go up left to a ledge with trees for the belay and use long slings under the arch and at the end of the crack to prevent severe rope drag. Finish up ledges past trees until there is an escape corner facing right to the summit.
I rope soloed this one and thought it was new but on below the top arch in the face crack found 3 vintage pins in the crack.
Committing climb for back then with retreat still difficult on the upper pitches.

Location

Start at the beginning of the Beak Buttress, Start up corner until you can move east or right and then upwards to the a large platform ledge. Walk off climb down the east side.

Protection

modern trad gear. First pitch still has some vintage pins on it but they're hard to see.

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