Type: Trad, 500 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: Bert Jensen and companions, 1937
Page Views: 1,175 total · 9/month
Shared By: bradley white on Jul 22, 2009 with improvements by David Powers
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Description

Mostly known as the the 'Nose Buttress' but birds don't have noses so I changed the name. Enter east facing corner of buttress and exit it (5-7) onto sandy path until boulder is reached to belay. Move off the boulder on the left side and climb face up and right around bulge (5-6) climb wall with horizontal crack up to depression surrounded by bushes and belay. Go up and under big bush to a move around an outside corner and grab onto an arch moving east until there is a break in the arch (5-7). Go through this break and up to a belay. climb past trees and ledges head east for a large dirty inside corner facing west and climb it to the summit. If it wasn't for the bushes on the third pitch this climb would be a four star classic. It is also rightfully the classic route on the cliff because of the extreme exposure on pitch three and the fact that this is likely the first climb done on this cliff.

Location

climb up the dirt gully west side of the beak buttress and belay at a tree next to the east facing corner. Walk off.

Protection

Trad rack and if you look hard you'll see a couple of vintage pins.

Photos