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Routes in The West End

W1 T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
W2 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
W3 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
W4 T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
W5 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Type: Trad, 500 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: Bradley White and Ted Hammond, 1982 or 3
Page Views: 306 total, 3/month
Shared By: bradley white on Jul 22, 2009
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Climb to crescent moon finger crack (5-8-) that was pinned. Above the crack go to arch and follow it left to gain (5-7) large platform belay ledge. Go up switch backing up outside corner face. Do some trickery mantling moves through a solid block face and exit left onto another platform belay. Climb up to another platform and climb the pine tree on the right fifteen ft. enabling you to step off tree past a non climbable ceiling. while the tree sways back and forth friction (5-6) immediately onto the roof slab above this ceiling and boogie up sustained friction slab to belay on tree ledges. Climb ledges easy friction separated by trees ledges to summit. Much loose rock was removed out of the arch on the first ascent.

Location

This climb begin 50+ feet right of the giant dike. Easiest to get to by heading for the start of the nose or beak buttress and traverse west on wooded ledges. Landmark is the crescent crack. Other direst approaches are a bit dangerous up dirt channels.

Protection

trad rack and a couple of fixed pins. Walk off.

Photos

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Tom Bowker
somewhere in the USA
Tom Bowker   somewhere in the USA
Great adventure! I remember doing the tree pitch on a windy day! Crazy! That was 20 years ago. The tree may be a bit stouter now. Apr 27, 2010