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Routes in Orifice Wall

Another Word For Eureka S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Ape Debate S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Brightest Fire, The S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Coup de' tat S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Disfigured Foreigner S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Disfigured Oedipus S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Eureka S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Flyer Starter S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Gettin' Off The Porch S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Granite of the Apes S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Hard Day at The Orifice S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Heel-A Monster S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Hereiophobia T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Huck Fin S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
In Search of Silence S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Oedipus Complex S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Orifice Politics S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Taking a Kneebar S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Unattended Consequences S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unknown S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Vince Bates, EFR,'09
Page Views: 8,300 total, 81/month
Shared By: 1Eric Rhicard on Jul 21, 2009
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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22 Opinions

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Closed to climbing March 15 - June 30 Details

Description

Bolted in 2001 and worked on by a number of people Vince finally worked out the cruxes. This route goes on and on. Despite the knee bars that allow numerous rests you are working the whole time. Two cruxes, one low and the very sequential and harder high crux lead to forty feet of less overhanging 5.11 to finish the route.

Location

This route starts the same as Orifice Politics but busts out right following a thin seam at the small roof just right of a big vertical rail.

Protection

Bolts
I recently heard that you sent Coup...Way to go Eric! That's awesome! And your first at that grade, way to go. That one won't be downgraded (unless Nipleit the troll visits and sends it on gear).
Congratulations bud!! Oct 2, 2011
Perfect sending weather today!


Sep 28, 2011
Nice going Canada! First 13 and it is a good one. Way to go. Sep 27, 2011
Christian
Casa do Cacete
  5.13-
Christian   Casa do Cacete
  5.13-
Yeah that was bad-ass today Eric :-) Sep 27, 2011
Geir
Tucson, AZ
Geir   Tucson, AZ
Congratulations to Canada Eric Ruljancich for his excellent send today! This is his first 5.13! Sep 27, 2011
RyanJames
  5.13
RyanJames  
  5.13
Wow Jesse! Nice ascent! Sounds epic!

The crux of this route has what I thought to be the cleanest rock on the Orifice Wall - textured, kitchen-counter-quality granite.

PMac's send: dpmclimbing.com/climbing-vi… Jul 25, 2011
Pat Mac
Tempe
  5.13a/b
Pat Mac   Tempe
  5.13a/b
Wow. Went up it twice. Second try I made it to the final crux and forgot to get the undercling!!!!!!!! It will be very close from now on when I give it send attempts! Can't wait to touch this stone again! Jul 25, 2011
Daryl Allan
Sierra Vista, AZ
Daryl Allan   Sierra Vista, AZ
Did i hear correctly? Are another round of congratulations in order?!?! Jul 18, 2011
Christian
Casa do Cacete
  5.13-
Christian   Casa do Cacete
  5.13-
"Soaked as a duck" lol :-)

Nice job Jesse! Sep 10, 2010
Thanks guys. Sending that was one of the hardest things I have ever done. I still can't believe it. Sep 10, 2010
Aleix  
Yes, Jesse sent it yesterday, but it wasn't just a send: right when he got past the crux it started pouring and had to do the last upper section with rain in his eyes and water flowing over the holds. The waterfalls at the rim and out of the orifice chimney appeared. He stuck with it and finished the damn thing, an epic send. When I lowered him he was soaked as a duck. Probably the hardest send of that route. Congrats Jesse ! Sep 7, 2010
Geir
Tucson, AZ
Geir   Tucson, AZ
yeah jesse!! Sep 7, 2010
Hendrixson
Tucson, AZ
Hendrixson   Tucson, AZ
Congratulations goes out to Jesse Shultz for what I believe is the forth redpoint of this route. Way to go! Sep 6, 2010
Geir
Tucson, AZ
Geir   Tucson, AZ
congratulations to joe kreidel on his send today!!! way to go joe!!


Aug 4, 2010
karatepete
tucson, AZ
karatepete   tucson, AZ
do not jump from the anchors of this route! Listen to EFR, just, "step off." Sep 24, 2009
Chicken wing is what I got with my left arm while in the head and shoulders rest. Tat is what we removed when we started working on this route last year. Chicken shit is how we feel the first day back at the Orifice wall. Couped up is how we feel when mother nature calls in a big way and we need to get off the ledge in a hurry. Wow what a great name Vince. I think you have a knack for this. Aug 7, 2009
Christian
Casa do Cacete
  5.13-
Christian   Casa do Cacete
  5.13-
Das ist korrekt Mr Hundal Aug 7, 2009
Geir
Tucson, AZ
Geir   Tucson, AZ
exactly. the literal translation of this climb's name is "chicken house filled with old slings and webbing." :) Aug 7, 2009
Christian
Casa do Cacete
  5.13-
Christian   Casa do Cacete
  5.13-
Nice Eric!!!

PS Aleix "tat" means like old slings left behind to rap, etc Aug 7, 2009
Geir
Tucson, AZ
Geir   Tucson, AZ
Great send Eric!!!! Wish I was there to see it! Aug 6, 2009
Aleix  
Inspiring sends, amazing indeed, and I got to watch them both. :-)
Congrats!!

Since I am not american, I had to look up "tat" and this is what wikipedia says: "Thematic Apperception Test or TAT has been amongst the most widely used, researched, and taught projective psychological tests. Its adherents claim that it taps a subject's unconscious to reveal repressed aspects of personality, motives and needs for achievement, power and intimacy, and problem-solving abilities."

How do you guys choose your route's names ?! Aug 4, 2009
Gracious Amigo! Aug 3, 2009
Luis Cisneros
Tucson
  5.13-
Luis Cisneros   Tucson
  5.13-
way to go Vince and Eric!!!! great sends!!! Aug 3, 2009
You gotta love the various names given some moves. Mary Poppins, half Poppin. Miko Bar, replaces Euro Foot .aggotry, Head and Shoulders, Dorito, Fred Nicole. Now if I could only put them all together. Jul 27, 2009
Geir
Tucson, AZ
Geir   Tucson, AZ
Redpoint!!!!! Awesome work Vince!!!! Jul 22, 2009