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Routes in Foreign Trade Zone

Bat out of Hell T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cowboys and Heroes T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Eurozone S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Foreign Trade Zone T,S,TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
I Gotta Wear Shades TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Teflon Toes S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: TR
FA: unknown
Page Views: 654 total, 6/month
Shared By: Steve Lineberry on Jul 21, 2009
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


15 Opinions

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Description

Climb the crack / dihedral for 25 feet then move right following the arete through the overhangs to the top.

Location

Locate the narrow buttress with gullies on both sides 100 feet left of the Foreign Trade Zone buttress.

Protection

Natural Anchors

Photos

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Unique route that luckily I followed as the crux is definitely a bit runout as Ben described. Really cool moves however and the tech dihedral immediately followed by the steep roof and beached whale maneuver was pretty awesome. The top is a fun jug haul. If only it was taller! Sep 24, 2017
Benandstuff
Winston-Salem, NC
 
Benandstuff   Winston-Salem, NC
 
This is quite a fun route and I am surprised nobody really talks about it.

I put gear in the crack under the ledge and in the crack on the far left near the Teflon Toes bolt (slung long). While I don't think I would have been seriously hurt if I fell, the gear was definitely a little lower/farther away than one would want through the crux, which is dihedral stemming and not anything secure.

Bring a .75 for right after the crux.

Don't be afraid to do the beached whale onto the shelf. Sep 20, 2017
Adam Paashaus
Greensboro, North Carolina
 
Adam Paashaus   Greensboro, North Carolina
 
I would call this a potential candidate for an R rating mainly for the fall consequence in the crux area and the holds aren't super positive for a couple moves. I had small C3's (likely the only gear that would fit a tiny pod) that gave me a marginal gear till you get up to the next break in the rock but I'd say you wouldn't want to fall right there. Then chicken heads (sling) and cracks to the top. A worthy and fun lead. Nov 28, 2015
Joshua McDaniel
Johnson City, TN
 
Joshua McDaniel   Johnson City, TN
 
I wish I could remember more about the day I did this route. An old note in my climbing journal says on 1/8/2006 (beautiful day for Pilot, high 55F). Onsighted Body Surfin, Snooker, 8-Ball, I Gotta Wear Shades. I remember starting at the Pool Hall and just working my way up the cliff line picking off the possible trad lines I thought I could do at the time. Seem to remember thinking it looked kind of intimidating, but it wasn't too bad. Dec 5, 2011