Type: Trad, 40 ft, Grade II
FA: Bob Scarpelli, 2007
Page Views: 2,094 total · 18/month
Shared By: Lenore Sparks on Jul 21, 2009
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

This climb made its photographic debut in Alpinist, and has since probably only seen Bob's ascent. Part of the problem is that it is hard to find. Look for a narrow slot that dead ends in a dark corner. The only way to get out of this corner is to turn around, or climb a wide off-width.

Location

It is behind the upper left tier of the Plumb Line Crag. Go west of Matt's Pinnacle, then right around the entire crag to the very back side of the upper left tier. Look for a narrow corridor.

Protection

2# 6 Camalots, a Valley Giant, a wish, and one glimmer of hope. An anchor gets you down.

Photos

Lenore Sparks
Dolores, CO
  5.10
Lenore Sparks   Dolores, CO
  5.10
Uh...this climb is a good practice if you are working on Crack of Fear. It will make COF feel pretty easy. Aug 18, 2009
Tyler Smeenk
Laramie, WY
  5.10b/c
Tyler Smeenk   Laramie, WY
  5.10b/c
I thought this was pretty hard, but it is probably due more to my bad technique. My buddy got it clean on TR, he got both feet in the crack at the crux, heel toe with the left, knee jams with the right, and moved 1/2 inch at a time all the way to the top, no fist stacking. I was just curious if anyone stacks this thing? Sep 3, 2012
I saw a bald guy do this on one number six Camalot. Apr 22, 2015
A-W
  5.10b
A-W  
  5.10b
I really didn't think this was too bad. Pretty standard heel toes in between good feet on the left wall. The BD #6 tips out with about 15 feet to go. Bolts up top. A very nice, little climb. Jul 3, 2017