Type: Sport, 150 ft (45 m)
FA: Ted Hammond, Bradley White, mid 1980's
Page Views: 3,324 total · 22/month
Shared By: bradley white on Jul 21, 2009
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Historical description by FA "From the top of pitch 2 of the Original Orange Crush move directly up past 2 pins in a horizontal crack over a bulge (hard 5-10) into a dirty corner slot chimney like depression. Follow this depression until there is an exit right. This direct finish with a intense scrubbing would be a nice addition to this section. I'm sure the pins are rotted out by now. The crack they are in continuously gets and remains wet.

Ted led it and rebuked me for thinking it was a good climb because it was so dirty. I didn't lead it after his epic ascent. It has gone into the void of obscurity, although it was the first of it's kind to this area to reveal what free climbing potential was to become some of the renown climbs of Rattlesnake. It blindsided me to pursuing these other first ascents."

UPDATE - Now fully bolted with glue-ins and it is considerably cleaner. From the Tropicana ledge, the former second pitch of Orange Crush is now combined with this as one pitch. Exciting airy terrain with lots of kneebars! Make sure to take note of the sling recommendations below to avoid potential rope drag.

Location

Originally climbed as a direct finish pitch after doing the first two pitches of Original Orange Crush, now that it is all bolted, the last two pitches are climbed together as one.. Climb the bolted version of Orange Crush or an alternate first pitch to gain the Tropicana ledge. Belay at the far right (Tropicana) anchors (be aware of sharing the anchor). From those anchors, traverse right around the nose, clipping the Fresh Squeezed anchor, across to a left facing corner and continue straight up aiming for the steep slot at the top.

Protection

Counting the Fresh Squeezed anchors as the first bolt, 9 glue-in bolts to anchor. Use shoulder length slings on the 2nd, 3rd and 4th bolts, long draws on the rest. Don't clip the pins. They are just left for historical purpose. Proper sling and long draw usage will eliminate a lot of rope drag and wear and tear. See Eric's comment about rope length below.

Photos