Chinese Water Torture
Avg: 2.7 from 7 votes
|Type:||Sport, 150 ft|
|FA:||Ted Hammond, Bradley White, mid 1980's|
|Page Views:||1,906 total · 18/month|
|Shared By:||bradley white on Jul 21, 2009|
|Admins:||Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall, Jonathan Steitzer|
DescriptionFrom the top of pitch 2 of the Original Orange Crush move directly up past 2 pins in a horizontal crack over a bulge (hard 5-10) into a dirty corner slot chimney like depression. Follow this depression until there is an exit right. This direct finish with a intense scrubbing would be a nice addition to this section. I'm sure the pins are rotted out by now. The crack they are in continuously gets and remains wet.
Ted led it and rebuked me for thinking it was a good climb because it was so dirty. I didn't lead it after his epic ascent. It has gone into the void of obscurity, although it was the first of it's kind to this area to reveal what free climbing potential was to become some of the renown climbs of Rattlesnake. It blindsided me to pursuing these other first ascents.
UPDATE - Now fully bolted with glue-ins and it is considerably cleaner. From the Tropicana ledge, the former second pitch of Orange Crush is now combined with this as one pitch. Exciting airy terrain with lots of kneebars! Make sure to take note of the sling recommendations below to avoid potential rope drag.