Type: Trad, Alpine, 60 ft
FA: Roy Suggett and Jim Mathews
Page Views: 2,593 total · 23/month
Shared By: Roy Suggett on Jul 20, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


17 Opinions

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Description

This is an especially strenuous crack that requires some off-width technique near the top.

Location

This route is to the left of "Great Ape Escape" and just to the right of "Maguilla Gorilla."

Protection

Medium to large cams and lots of them! Chains at the top.
Pat C
Honolulu
 
Pat C   Honolulu
 
Brutal. Even scarier in the rain. Jul 24, 2009
I could sadly only climb this route on top rope because we lacked the large gear! Bring your #4s - at least three of them, if not four! The climb is absolutely beautiful and if you use the features on the face the cruxy offwidth section isn't bad.

Top rope it by traversing from the Magilla Gorilla anchors and setting your line. (5.6ish moves) Jul 21, 2011
grk10vq

 
grk10vq    
 
absolute classic. Sep 6, 2011
Boissal .
Small Lake, UT
  5.10b
Boissal .   Small Lake, UT
  5.10b
Stunning looking crack, pumpy as hell!

Rack recommendation: .75, #1, #2, #3, three #4 and a #5. Tape. Your mileage may vary. Sep 6, 2011
apross  
Burly.
A must do when your tired and hungover. Oct 2, 2011
Alec LaLonde
  5.10-
Alec LaLonde  
  5.10-
This is a really quality desert-style crack, from thin hands to offwidth. Face holds make the offwidth not too bad.

Tape is recommended, the inside of the crack is sharp. Jul 1, 2013
J Mo
Tucson, AZ
 
J Mo   Tucson, AZ
 
Fun! Plenty of face/holds, pretty darn civilized for a gaping maw, actually.... Jul 28, 2013