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Zanzibar
5.5,
Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches,
Avg: 2 from 10
votes
FA: Joe Cote & Roger Martin Apr 8, 1972
New Hampshire
> WM: Kancamagus…
> Woodchuck Ledge
> 5. The Main Cliff
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure
Details
The USFS issued a temporary closure due to nesting peregrine falcons. The closure should last from April through July. For more info, see
fs.usda.gov/alerts/whitemou…
Description
Start in a slightly vegatated corner, easy climbing will bring you past a fixed tree anchor for an adjacent climb, continue on easy rock to the top of the butress. Second pitch follows the same crack system to the top. Starts low angle then some of the steepest 5.6 this side of High E. Continue past the steep rock to a tree anchor.
Location
Far right side of the cliff past and uphill from the route of all evil.
Protection
Standard rack
Salt Lake
It's a gorgeous hike up from the road, an adventurous scramble over to this part of the cliff, and a killer view from the top. Good place to practice your remote/alpine climbing skills, as it's two pitches and steep enough to get your attenion.
The bottom of the route is tricky to find.
Also, there is a similar 5.5-5.6 route just to the left, that was soaking wet when we were there. It's called Kampala. Looks maybe even slightly better than Zanzibar. More of a defined crack. Sep 19, 2013