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5.5, Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches,  Avg: 1.6 from 8 votes
FA: Joe Cote & Roger Martin Apr 8, 1972
New Hampshire > WM: Kancamagus… > Woodchuck Ledge > 5. The Main Cliff
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure Details


Start in a slightly vegatated corner, easy climbing will bring you past a fixed tree anchor for an adjacent climb, continue on easy rock to the top of the butress. Second pitch follows the same crack system to the top. Starts low angle then some of the steepest 5.6 this side of High E. Continue past the steep rock to a tree anchor.


Far right side of the cliff past and uphill from the route of all evil.


Standard rack

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T. Moon
[Hide Comment] The steep top part of this climb is awesome. It feels slightly overhanging but the holds and pro are excellent. Mar 5, 2010
Russ Keane
Plymouth, NH
[Hide Comment] Climbed this route last weekend. It is a fantastic, beautiful setting, and the climbing is okay. Don't go up there expecting some killer "hand crack" as they say. It's more of an easy gradual corner with a million stances and holds (solo-able), then belay, then start the steeper section to the top, which has a definite line which is a series of cracks I guess... But not exactly crack climbing. Fun but nothing to go crazy about.

It's a gorgeous hike up from the road, an adventurous scramble over to this part of the cliff, and a killer view from the top. Good place to practice your remote/alpine climbing skills, as it's two pitches and steep enough to get your attenion.

The bottom of the route is tricky to find.

Also, there is a similar 5.5-5.6 route just to the left, that was soaking wet when we were there. It's called Kampala. Looks maybe even slightly better than Zanzibar. More of a defined crack. Sep 19, 2013