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Routes in 5. The Main Cliff

Kampala T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Sledgehammer T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Stone Free T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Zanzibar T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Joe Cote & Roger Martin Apr 8, 1972
Page Views: 1,049 total, 10/month
Shared By: nhclimber on Jul 20, 2009
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

Start in a slightly vegatated corner, easy climbing will bring you past a fixed tree anchor for an adjacent climb, continue on easy rock to the top of the butress. Second pitch follows the same crack system to the top. Starts low angle then some of the steepest 5.6 this side of High E. Continue past the steep rock to a tree anchor.

Location

Far right side of the cliff past and uphill from the route of all evil.

Protection

Standard rack

Photos

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Climbed this route last weekend. It is a fantastic, beautiful setting, and the climbing is okay. Don't go up there expecting some killer "hand crack" as they say. It's more of an easy gradual corner with a million stances and holds (solo-able), then belay, then start the steeper section to the top, which has a definite line which is a series of cracks I guess... But not exactly crack climbing. Fun but nothing to go crazy about.

It's a gorgeous hike up from the road, an adventurous scramble over to this part of the cliff, and a killer view from the top. Good place to practice your remote/alpine climbing skills, as it's two pitches and steep enough to get your attenion.

The bottom of the route is tricky to find.

Also, there is a similar 5.5-5.6 route just to the left, that was soaking wet when we were there. It's called Kampala. Looks maybe even slightly better than Zanzibar. More of a defined crack. Sep 19, 2013
T. Moon
 
T. Moon  
 
The steep top part of this climb is awesome. It feels slightly overhanging but the holds and pro are excellent. Mar 5, 2010