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Routes in Milton Boulder

Donna V5 6C
Milton V4 6B
Never Say Never V10 7C+
Smeary Thing V7 7A+
Undercling Problem V3 6A
Type: Boulder
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,888 total, 38/month
Shared By: pfwein on Jul 19, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Pull onto SW face of Milton Boulder, and go up to the obvious crystal with your right hand and sloping crimper several feet up and to left of crystal with your left hand. From there, shoot to the top (the best hold is a little right of low point) and mantel.

Location

This should be easy to find: if there is car parked West of Milton, it may block the problem. The SW face of Milton Boulder right of Milton problem has very difficult problems such as Never Say Never.

Protection

This is not highball, and it has good landing, but a pad is nice for the many falls from the lip that a moderate boulderer may take.

Photos

Ken Cangi
Eldorado Springs, CO
  V4
Ken Cangi   Eldorado Springs, CO
  V4
Just did this thing again, after 20+ years. Still fun, and still felt stout for V4. May 3, 2015
Fun alternate (Milton Dyno V5): dyno from the starting holds to the lip, and mantle over.

Much more fun, in my opinion...compared to the original problem. Did both versions today, and this dyno was a lot of fun. Nov 6, 2012
Kegan Minock
colorado springs
V6+
Kegan Minock   colorado springs
V6+
This thing is so much harder than V4. I send V9 with one session of working, and this thing took me 15 goes to send. Oct 10, 2011
pfwein
Boulder, CO
 
pfwein   Boulder, CO
 
Colorado Bouldering by P. Benningfield rates V3. That's strange, as the inventor of the V rating system, J. Sherman, uses Milton as an example of the benchmark for V4. (See Hueco Tanks, Climbing and Bouldering Guide, 2nd ed., Chockstone Press Inc., 1995, p. 20).
Not a big deal, but I've always been a little miffed at Benningfield: Milton does not seem like a problem to downrate.
My beta: either R or L foot onto obvious, greaser hold, then go to top with L hand. I've seen others use R foot up and R of greaser hold, and go to top with R hand. Mantel exit is much easier but not totally trivial.
I've done this on warm summer days: maybe it's easy when cooler. Beautiful moderate/hard problem. Jul 19, 2009