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Routes in Leaning Tower

Blinded by the Light S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Craggy Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lichen Attack Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mainliner S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Original Route (aka Mean Leaner) T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Sausage Candles S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Second Thought S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Tiny Propeller S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tupelo Chain Sex S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unknown S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Will of the Wasp S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Lee Sheftel
Page Views: 794 total, 8/month
Shared By: LeeAB Brinckerhoff on Jul 19, 2009
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

This route climbs the arete on the left side of the tower from a high start off of a ledge around the corner. Compared to the other routes it is quite short but the climbing is interesting.

After stick clipping, head up the arete working between it and a seam/crack on the face to the left. Continue up to some better holds under the small roof on the right side of the arete. Powerful moves back to the left side and up into better holds along a right facing flake and the anchors above.

Location

Climbs the left arete of the leaning tower starting off of a ledge about 20-30 feet up and around the corner.

Protection

5 bolts, bring a stick clip. Falling before being clipped in would be disastrous and if as mentioned below, some hangers are missing it is going to be a long way to that first bolt.

Photos

Jean  
I'm pretty sure this is a Lee Sheftel route. Sep 13, 2011
William Penner
The 505
William Penner   The 505
Looks pretty cool, almost like a flake/finger crack, but is very short and missing the first two hangers. I put up another mid-range 12 on an arete left of it and the 5.10 crack.

It would be much better looking if it were not next to the beautiful, tall routes on the Tower. Jul 23, 2009