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Routes in Yo Picasso (aka Sunshine Daydream) Boulder

Sunshine Daydream (aka Yo Picasso) V4 6B
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Type: Boulder, 16 ft
FA: James March
Page Views: 4,312 total · 38/month
Shared By: C Miller on Jul 18, 2009
Admins: Colin Parker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Remember to fill out a wilderness permit, even if climbing for the day! Details

Description

SDS and work up the fractured crack system and horizontals to a a final heady move reaching blindly for a finishing jug. Classic.

Yo Picasso is named for a self portrait done in 1901.

Location

Center of the north face.

Protection

pads, spotter

Photos

RTM
RTM  
Originally Named Yo Picasso. Unaware of James' ascent, the climb became well known as Sunshine Daydream. Yo Picasso seems to be making a comeback tho! Jul 27, 2009
RyanJames  
 
Climbs more like a route: CLASSIC! May 28, 2012
AJ
 
AJ  
 
There are a lot of different ways to climb this. The most obvious variations are: 1) follow the guidebook description: sit start and climb sloping rails. This way the technical crux is about 8' up.
2) climb the crack directly via jams and jugs inside it, the problem is much easier this way and the crux becomes the last move. Either way the last move is for sure the dreaded "mental crux." Super classic, one of the best and prettiest problems at the Tram IMHO.
Video: youtu.be/6E3avT0h6Qk May 29, 2015
Jan Tarculas
Riverside, Ca
  V3+
Jan Tarculas   Riverside, Ca
  V3+
BETA ALERT

If you know how to hand jam this climb feels more like a V3. I was able to relax and chill half way up the problem and get really bomber hand jams in the horizontal and vertical crack midway up. Knee bar helps Aug 4, 2015
RTM
RTM  
The true line actually travels the face to the right of the chimney, which is the classic v4. Back in the day, the chimney was a rotting mess, so the obvious thing to climb was the beautiful clean rails to the right. The chimney is probably v0+, by oldschool standards! Aug 5, 2015

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