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Routes in Miscellaneous Scattered Routes

Bug Bananas S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Flopper, The S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Half Pint S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Small Fry S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Warthog S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Olin Johnson
Page Views: 1,024 total, 10/month
Shared By: Perin Blanchard on Jul 18, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Located in the Lone Peak Wilderness Area Details
Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

Description

A fairly casual line that starts up broken, lower-angled rock, then steepens a bit and provides positive edges. A semi-detached flake appears just left of the bolt line midway through the climb and holds provided by the flake keep the climbing easy.

Protection

6 closely spaced bolts, ring anchors. The first bolt is out-of-line (to the left) with the rest and not particularly useful.

Location

Follow the trail on the east of the streambed up the canyon. After crossing the streambed the trail turns right and heads among a number of large evergreen trees.

This route will appear on the right side of a west-facing wall directly in front of you.

Photos

Brett Barrus  
 
I climbed this route yesterday. All of the anchors on the way up seemed fine, but the 2 top anchors are a bit sketchy. The left bolt/nut seemed tight, but the anchor can be spun around on the bolt. The right nut was loose enough that I could tighten it back up with my fingers! I'm going to try and torque them down soon. Apr 21, 2016
I climbed this route today while wondering around looking for the other routes in the area. The left anchor nut was finger tight, I noticed it spinning as I was clipping the bolt. Tried to tighten it a bit. Fun route if I wasn't thinking about that flake coming off. Jul 13, 2014
shawn Kenney
Draper,Utah
shawn Kenney   Draper,Utah
I thought the route was fun. The bolts looked fairly new so maybe someone replaced them. May 6, 2014
I wonder why they didn't make this line go all the way to the top of the wall... Sep 5, 2009
Christopher Sorensen
Provo, UT
  5.7+
Christopher Sorensen   Provo, UT
  5.7+
I didn't feel that this was all that badly bolted, but it wasn't the best bolting job, that's for sure. The anchors looked ok to me and I wasn't worried using them.

However, that flake is completely hollow and the whole route relies on it. It will come off one day, and I feel bad for whoever is belaying the person who knocks it off, because that will go badly. Unfortunately, the whole route relies on this flake and wouldn't be anything without it. That said, I thought the route was fun and interesting, with some weird slopey foot holds that make you want to double check before you put your weight on them. Sep 5, 2009
While this route looks inviting - beware. The flake is quite loose, chossy all around, and the anchors are rickety. The left hanger spins and is drilled amongst a spider's web of cracks and the right bolt has had rock break out from around it. Sad to see such careless bolting - a real waste of some good anchors. Jul 31, 2009