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The Shadow Nose
5.7+,
Trad, 2 pitches,
Avg: 0.5 from 2
votes
FA: Dick Williams and Annie O'Neill, 2007
New York
> Gunks
> Near Trapps
> d. Harvest Moon to th…
Access Issue: A portion of Near Trapps has been closed to climbing
Details
A portion of the Near Trapps has been closed to climbing. This includes land below the cliff to above cliff line and starts approximately at Eenie Meenie and continues south about 200 feet. Climbers are asked to respect the no-trespassing signs and advised to use the access trail marked in orange blazes. This trail starts at the intersection of the Blue trail over the top of the Nears and the first Red trail. Follow the orange blazes east and downhill from this junction to arrive at the far (south) end of the Nears.
For more information please view
mohonkpreserve.org/index.ph…
Description
Start from an alcove and climb up to the ledge below the roof; the roof has an obvious crack, and there is a tree a few feet higher. Move right of the tree and over the roof (crux). Climb past another roof at a crack, then go right approximately 5 feet and find a stance on the slab above. Trend up and left to a less than reassuring belay/rap tree; there are other - recommended - options for belaying. Rap off or scramble to the top.
Location
Go to the end of the cliff and look for the left-leaning crack of
Up in Arms; this is on a large, left-facing corner. Shadow Nose is left and up the hill about 30 feet.
Protection
Standard 'Gunks rack.
[Hide Photo] The Shadow Nose - almost the end of The Nears at Smede's Cove. If you pass the natural spring, you have gone too far. See Dick William's Climber's Guide for the Nears for details.