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The Thimble (Backside)

5.6 R, Trad, 80 ft (24 m),  Avg: 3 from 26 votes
FA: Dave Rearick, Bob Kamps, Bill Gilson, Verena Fryman, Herb Conn, and Jan Conn
S Dakota > Custer SP > Needles Eye Area > Thimble

Description

Climb the low angle side of the Thimble (no pro - unless one is creative).

Location

Downclimb from parking lot to the base of the Thimble's slabby downhill side. Rap down into parking lot.

Protection

none, anchors at top.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Thimble's "Backside" 1974 (photo by Steve Schofield) Note "Robbins Boots", swami belt and all the pro being carried. I think the knob my right hand is the one I was able to tie off...???   "5.3 said the book ! "  (View is climber's right looking left)
[Hide Photo] Thimble's "Backside" 1974 (photo by Steve Schofield) Note "Robbins Boots", swami belt and all the pro being carried. I think the knob my right hand is the one I was able to tie off...??? "5.3 sai…
Soloing The Thimble with rope backpacked
[Hide Photo] Soloing The Thimble with rope backpacked
Fourth of July Needles Climbing Spectacle 2022
[Hide Photo] Fourth of July Needles Climbing Spectacle 2022

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] This is a clasic. Dont know if it is nerves or what but this felt 5.6 both times i have been on it (1995 and 2008). At any rate, with zero pro this is a serious undertaking. I would say be sturdy at 5.6 since it is a solo with a rope trailing to get off the top. once your on top, youll feel better. Sep 1, 2009
Will Stattman
Boston, MA
  5.6 X
[Hide Comment] Actually not a bad little face climb. Totally X rated though, you really wouldn't want to fall, there isn't any good pro. Presumably anyone bothering to attempt this will be pushing 12s though. The bolted anchor at the top gets you easily down and let's you tr the thimble, just make sure it's clear of cars! Jun 17, 2013
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
 
[Hide Comment] In 1974 the "backside" route was, I believe, rated 5.3 in the guidebook of that era. Talk about "old school"! My recollection is that I thought it a bit more difficult than that, but I won't put in a rating as to how much more...probably 5.4 or 5.5. Non-sticky rubber, of course.

The "PG / R / X " modifiers hadn't yet been invented, but one glance at the route showed no cracks; hence no pro....but wait, about half way up there is ( or at least was ) a fist-sized crystal. This I slung with a 7mm sling (or was it webbing?) and taped it down with adhesive tape, from the first-aid kit, to prevent the rope flicking it off when I climbed above it.

At the top, there were (of course) no bolts, so we lowered one end of the rope down the "roadside" side, tied it to the bumper of our car, and rapped single-strand back down the "backside". Jun 9, 2015
Brent Kertzman
Black Hills, SD
  5.4 X
[Hide Comment] This route is listed as 80' in length when in reality it is closer to 50'. May 7, 2023