Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Dave Rearick, Bob Kamps, Bill Gilson, Verena Fryman, Herb Conn, and Jan Conn
Page Views: 1,370 total · 12/month
Shared By: Trevor Shearen on Jul 17, 2009 with updates from Robert Hall
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route

16 Opinions

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Climb the low angle side of the Thimble (no pro - unless one is creative).


Downclimb from parking lot to the base of the Thimble's slabby downhill side. Rap down into parking lot.


none, anchors at top.


This is a clasic. Dont know if it is nerves or what but this felt 5.6 both times i have been on it (1995 and 2008). At any rate, with zero pro this is a serious undertaking. I would say be sturdy at 5.6 since it is a solo with a rope trailing to get off the top. once your on top, youll feel better. Sep 1, 2009
Will Stat
  5.6 X
Will Stat  
  5.6 X
Actually not a bad little face climb. Totally X rated though, you really wouldn't want to fall, there isn't any good pro. Presumably anyone bothering to attempt this will be pushing 12s though. The bolted anchor at the top gets you easily down and let's you tr the thimble, just make sure it's clear of cars! Jun 17, 2013
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
In 1974 the "backside" route was, I believe, rated 5.3 in the guidebook of that era. Talk about "old school"! My recollection is that I thought it a bit more difficult than that, but I won't put in a rating as to how much more...probably 5.4 or 5.5. Non-sticky rubber, of course.

The "PG / R / X " modifiers hadn't yet been invented, but one glance at the route showed no cracks; hence no pro....but wait, about half way up there is ( or at least was ) a fist-sized crystal. This I slung with a 7mm sling (or was it webbing?) and taped it down with adhesive tape, from the first-aid kit, to prevent the rope flicking it off when I climbed above it.

At the top, there were (of course) no bolts, so we lowered one end of the rope down the "roadside" side, tied it to the bumper of our car, and rapped single-strand back down the "backside". Jun 9, 2015