Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Central Tongue

Brad and Tom's Climb T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dickey Traverse T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X
Slabs Direct? T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tom and Jay's Climb T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Bradley White, Tom Bowker, 1980
Page Views: 112 total, 1/month
Shared By: bradley white on Jul 17, 2009
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


4 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Climb ramps with shallow corner for pro and belay at corner's top. Head left through steep section little pro (t.c.u. will work best here) past this bulge (5-6) and climb to summit (5-1). Make believe there is a belay in some pockets and short bushes. There's a 4 star variation to our climb. Don't belay at corner top. Keep going slightly right to good belay ledge after passing one bolt on (5-6) friction face. from here continue straight up (5-1) to top make the same pretend it'll work belay.

Location

From the base of Dickey Ledge, walk to the high point on the left or west side, above the main tongue of Dickey the slab. Start here. You can do some (5-6) no protection friction up to this place. Our first ascent did and it is clean but unprotected for 60ft.

Protection

Trad rack, nothing big. One 27 year old 1/4 bolt (that needs replacement) protects the face crux and we didn't place it.

Photos

- No Photos -

0 Comments