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Routes in Sunkist Wall

Arachniphobia T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Artz vs. Parker T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Begoon/Cote T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bulgarian T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Country Love S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dead Varmint T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fresh Boy S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Freshly Squeezed S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Hand Out, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hilly Billy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mr. Mogley S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Opulence T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pay the Mortgage S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Reed Parker, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Soul Patch S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Taxi Gaucho S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Turtle Power T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 666 total, 7/month
Shared By: Jeremy Steck on Jul 16, 2009
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

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Writing in chalk Details

Description

If you can climb trad at this grade, this one's worth the walk. Start at the overhang directly below the obvious finger crack splitting the upper face. Campus up a move or two, making some committing moves to reach a stance on the face. (no gear for the first 20 feet or so). Place some gear and follow a short hand crack and jugs to reach a great stance in a pod with great hand jams. Sew it up, the business starts here. Work your way up a tips crack with a few difficult finger locks to reach a money lock and then a great horizontal (crux). From here, the difficulty backs down as you follow a tight hands crack with an occasional face hold to the top. (As of 7/09, there were no fixed anchors but a single bomber fixed nut can be used to lower off).

Location

Once you reach the Sunkist Wall, follow the trail to the right side of the cliff. The crack will be obvious.

Protection

Mostly small cams and nuts (< 1"). A #3 camalot can be placed in the pod below the crux.

Photos

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Jon Clark
Philadelphia, PA
Jon Clark   Philadelphia, PA
I made the walk down specifically to check out this route. Finger cracks are my favorite style of climbing and I was disappointed with what I saw. I decided to pass. Maybe I missed out, but it just doesn't look that good. Oct 15, 2013