PRINT: Rock Climb Across the View, Jemez Mountains and Jemez Valley

Across the View

5.11d, Sport, 90 ft (27 m),

Avg: 2 from 2 votes
FA: Bob D'Antonio, Mike Baker, Mike McGill
New Mexico > Jemez Mountains… > Las Conchas > (H) Gallery Wall

Description

Across the View has fun moves on tufa-like features. Lichen is evidence of the lack of traffic, probably in large part due to what used to be an annoying approach pitch.

Scramble up to the alcove ledge by the easiest path, which should be no harder than 5.2 (or better yet, climb the new direct start). An optional belay can be had at the alcove ledge-- useful if climbing both headwall routes. A steep section past the first bolt is much easier than it looks, because the huecos are huge. Above, bust left and go up a black streak through the overhanging crux using some tufa-like holds.

The 2-bolt anchor has has lowering biners on screwlinks but the bolts are very poorly placed in dishes and lowering on these biners will results in a lot of drag and rope twisting. Therefore, it's best to continue 5' farther up and right to the Presumed To Be Modern anchor on easy terrain.

A 60m rope will just barely reach from the ground to the anchor, and back to the ground, with rope stretch.

Location

Across the View is the left bolted line on Gallery Wall. It shares the start with Presumed..

Protection

10 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Erik Hanschen
Lost Almost, NM

The first bolt of this route is missing a hanger- we were able to link the first bolt of Presumed to be Modern to the second of this route. Apr 12, 2020

George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM

5.11d

I wonder if the hangerless bolt on very steep terrain is part of this climb, or was part of an abandoned idea for this climb. As Erik said, when we climbed it this spring, we used the first headwall bolt for "Presumed to be Modern" and traversed left. I don't remember for sure but I kind of think I did it this same way when I climbed it in 2009. May 9, 2020

Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM

5.11d

I added screwlinks and biners to the anchor for this route this evening but the bolts are very poorly placed in dishes. Thus, lowering off these biners results in a ton of drag and rope twisting. Adding some six-inch chains instead of single screwlinks would help but ideally new bolts should be placed about two feet up in flatter, better rock.
A good route with some fun climbing and using the "new" bolted approach line makes for logistically simple climbing experience. George, I agree with your idea that the hangerless "first" bolt out of the alcove was an abandoned idea as there's no way the climbing to that bolt is 5.11 (or even 5.12) and the moves would be completely unprotected. The route certainly must climb to the first bolt of "Presumed to be Modern" and then left into the rest of the route. May 12, 2020