Avg: 2 from 2 votes
|Type:||Sport, 90 ft (27 m)|
|FA:||Bob D'Antonio, Mike Baker, Mike McGill|
|Page Views:||467 total · 3/month|
|Shared By:||George Perkins on Jul 16, 2009|
|Admins:||Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski|
Scramble up to the alcove ledge by the easiest path, which should be no harder than 5.2 (or better yet, climb the new direct start). An optional belay can be had at the alcove ledge-- useful if climbing both headwall routes. A steep section past the first bolt is much easier than it looks, because the huecos are huge. Above, bust left and go up a black streak through the overhanging crux using some tufa-like holds.
The 2-bolt anchor has has lowering biners on screwlinks but the bolts are very poorly placed in dishes and lowering on these biners will results in a lot of drag and rope twisting. Therefore, it's best to continue 5' farther up and right to the Presumed To Be Modern anchor on easy terrain.
A 60m rope will just barely reach from the ground to the anchor, and back to the ground, with rope stretch.